Church of St. Nicholas (Mikula) in Stari Grad – Maritime Heritage, Votive Offerings, and Centuries-Old Tradition of Burning a Ship

The Church of St. Nicholas, affectionately known as Mikula by the residents of Stari Grad on the island of Hvar, is one of the most significant historical churches in the town and holds a special place in its maritime tradition. For centuries, it has been a spiritual center for local sailors and fishermen, who turned to St. Nicholas for protection at sea and offered thanks for safe returns from their journeys. Inside, valuable artistic altars, votive paintings of shipwrecks, and mementos of sailors are preserved, while in front of the church each December, one of the most unusual customs on the island of Hvar takes place – the traditional burning of an old ship in honor of St. Nicholas.

History of the Church of St. Nicholas – From Romanesque to Renaissance

The history of the Church of St. Nicholas dates back to the Middle Ages. Its oldest part originates from the 12th or 13th century, when a small Romanesque church existed at this site. It is first mentioned in written sources in the 14th century, under the Latin name Ecclesia Sancti Nicolai Civitatis Veteris, meaning the church of St. Nicholas of Stari Grad.

The church gradually acquired its current appearance during the late Middle Ages and the Renaissance. Significant renovations and expansions were carried out at the end of the 15th century, and in the 16th century, new sections were added, giving the building a distinctive Gothic-Renaissance character.

The original Romanesque church now forms the central part of the structure, while a new church nave was added to the west. Different phases of construction are visible in the vaults: the older part is covered with a barrel vault with ribs, while the newer part has a pointed vault.

The sacristy was added at the end of the 18th century, between 1793 and 1798.

Throughout the centuries, the church has remained closely connected to maritime activities, one of the key aspects shaping the economic and social life of Stari Grad.

Architecture of the Church and Valuable Artistic Works

The Church of St. Nicholas is a single-nave stone building with a rectangular apse, located next to the old town cemetery.

Its façade features well-crafted stone blocks, a Renaissance portal, and a decorative rose window with ten petals, executed in a transitional Gothic-Renaissance style. Above the roof rises a bell tower with two bells.

Among the preserved details of the oldest church, the stone font near the side entrance is particularly interesting. It is adorned with depictions of bearded human heads at the corners and a cross in the center.

The most valuable artistic item inside is the lavish gilded wooden altar depicting St. Nicholas, St. Andrew, and St. Anthony. It was crafted in the early 17th century by Venetian woodcarver Antonio Porri and is considered one of the significant works of church art preserved in Stari Grad.

The church also houses ten wooden statues of apostles, created by Venetian master Francesco Ciabatta in the 17th century. The statues originally belonged to the parish church of St. Stephen and were transferred to the Church of St. Nicholas in the 19th century.

In addition to the main altar, the church has altars dedicated to St. Jerome, Our Lady of the Annunciation, St. Cross, and St. Reparata.

The Church of Stari Grad's Sailors and Fishermen

The special significance of the Church of St. Nicholas arises from its connection to the brotherhood of Stari Grad's sailors and fishermen.

St. Nicholas, the bishop of Myra in Asia Minor, is traditionally revered as the protector of sailors, travelers, and fishermen. According to Christian tradition, his protection is associated with saving people during storms and dangers at sea.

In Stari Grad, this devotion has been particularly strong due to the long-standing maritime tradition. The sailors' brotherhood took care of the church, its maintenance, and religious customs.

After surviving storms and shipwrecks, sailors would offer votive items to the church as a sign of gratitude. Among these are paintings of sailing ships in storms, models of boats, and other items related to maritime journeys.

These votive offerings are not only religious items but also valuable historical traces of the lives of people who have sailed the Adriatic and Mediterranean for centuries.

They reflect the daily lives of maritime families, for whom going to sea often meant prolonged separation and uncertainty about return.

Burning the Old Ship – A Unique Custom for St. Nicholas Day

One of the most well-known customs in Stari Grad takes place every year on December 5, the eve of St. Nicholas Day.

In front of the Church of St. Nicholas, an old wooden ship is traditionally burned, symbolically expressing gratitude and asking for the protection of sailors.

This custom has deep roots in local maritime culture. The ship is symbolically sacrificed to St. Nicholas, the protector of those who live by and from the sea.

The gathering around the burning ship connects religious tradition with the identity of Stari Grad. For the residents, it serves as a reminder of generations of sailors, fishermen, and shipbuilders who have shaped its history.

On the feast day of St. Nicholas, December 6, the protector of sailors is celebrated, and the church once again becomes the center of local religious tradition.

For visitors coming to Hvar outside the summer season, this custom offers a particularly interesting opportunity to experience the authentic cultural heritage of the island.

The Walled Hermitess Lukrica from Brač

One of the more unusual stories from the religious history of Stari Grad is associated with the Church of St. Nicholas.

On the southern side of the church, during the 16th century, a small stone room was added for hermitic life.

According to historical records, in 1559, a woman named Lukrica, originally from the island of Brač, withdrew into it. She chose a life of voluntary solitude, dedicated to prayer and penance.

Local tradition states that she spent as much as 35 years in that room, separated from the outside world. Although the details of her life cannot be fully historically confirmed, the existence of Lukrica's hermitage is recorded in church documentation from the 16th century.

The small room was connected to the interior of the church by an opening next to the altar, allowing her to participate in religious life without leaving her solitude.

The story of Lukrica represents a rare and interesting example of medieval and early modern hermitic tradition, which was once present on the Dalmatian islands.

St. Reparata and the Relics of the Roman Martyr

Another unique aspect of the Church of St. Nicholas is its connection to the veneration of St. Reparata, an early Christian martyr whose earthly remains were transferred to Stari Grad in 1890.

The relics arrived from Italy, and on July 9, 1890, they were ceremonially placed in the Church of St. Nicholas, where they are kept on the altar of the Holy Martyrs.

The transfer of the relics was an important religious event for the local population, and the veneration of St. Reparata continued through subsequent generations.

Special anniversaries of her arrival were marked by solemn masses and processions, further solidifying the Church of St. Nicholas's place in the religious life of Stari Grad.

Location and How to Reach the Church of St. Nicholas

The Church of St. Nicholas is located next to the old town cemetery, on the southern edge of the historic core of Stari Grad.

From the town's waterfront and center, it can be reached by a pleasant walk through the stone streets. The church's location outside the busiest part of the old town allows for a quieter exploration of its architecture and surroundings.

In front of the church stands a historic cypress tree planted in 1865, which has become a recognizable part of its immediate environment.

A visit to the church can be combined with a tour of the nearby Church of St. Lucy, the early Christian Church of St. John, and St. Stephen's Square.

It is possible to reach the broader area of the southern part of the town by car, but it is best to use public parking and continue on foot for the tour. The area directly around the church is not designated for tourist parking.

Why Visit the Church of St. Nicholas?

The Church of St. Nicholas is particularly interesting as it connects several important aspects of Stari Grad's history in one place: medieval architecture, artistic heritage, maritime activities, religious vows, and local customs.

Its gilded altars and votive offerings testify to the art and beliefs of former sailors, while the story of the hermitess Lukrica reveals a lesser-known side of the island's spiritual history.

However, what makes Mikula particularly recognizable is the fact that its tradition has not remained merely a part of the past. The burning of the old ship on the eve of St. Nicholas Day is a custom that still connects the residents with their maritime heritage.

Useful Information

• Location: Stari Grad, Hvar Island, Croatia
• Local Name: Church of St. Mikula
• Type of Landmark: Historical church, sacred monument, and center of maritime tradition
• Oldest Parts: 12th/13th century
• Main Phases of Construction: 15th and 16th centuries
• Architecture: Romanesque, Gothic, and Renaissance elements
• Special Features: Gilded wooden altar by Antonio Porri, votive paintings of sailors, and the hermit's stone room of Lukrica
• Protector: St. Nicholas, protector of sailors and fishermen
• Feast Day: December 6
• Traditional Custom: Burning of the old ship on December 5, the eve of St. Nicholas Day
• Additional Landmark: Relics of St. Reparata, transferred to the church in 1890
• Cultural Status: Protected cultural property of the Republic of Croatia
• Access: On foot from the center of Stari Grad
• Parking: Public parking in the surrounding urban area
• Nearby: Town cemetery, Church of St. Lucy, Church of St. John, and historic core
• Recommended for: History enthusiasts, sacred art lovers, maritime heritage, and traditional island customs