St Nicholas Church (Mikula) in Stari Grad – Maritime Heritage, Votive Offerings, and the Centuries-Old Tradition of Burning a Ship

St Nicholas Church, affectionately known as Mikula by the residents of Stari Grad on the island of Hvar, is one of the most significant historical churches in the town and holds a special place in its maritime tradition. For centuries, it has served as the spiritual centre for local sailors and fishermen, who turned to St Nicholas for protection at sea and offered thanks for safe returns from their voyages. Inside, the church houses valuable artistic altars, votive paintings of shipwrecks, and mementoes of sailors, while in front of the church each December, one of the island's most unusual customs takes place – the traditional burning of an old ship in honour of St Nicholas.

History of St Nicholas Church – From Romanesque to Renaissance

The history of St Nicholas Church dates back to the Middle Ages. Its oldest part originates from the 12th or 13th century, when a small Romanesque church stood on this site. It is first mentioned in written records in the 14th century under the Latin name Ecclesia Sancti Nicolai Civitatis Veteris, meaning the Church of St Nicholas of Stari Grad.

The church's current appearance was gradually shaped during the late Middle Ages and the Renaissance. Significant renovations and expansions were carried out at the end of the 15th century, and in the 16th century, new sections were added, giving the building its distinctive Gothic-Renaissance character.

The original Romanesque church now forms the central part of the structure, while a new nave was added to the west. Different phases of construction are evident in the vaults: the older section is covered with a barrel vault with ribs, while the newer part features a pointed vault.

The sacristy was added at the end of the 18th century, between 1793 and 1798.

Throughout the centuries, the church has remained closely linked to maritime activities, which have shaped the economic and social life of Stari Grad.

Architecture and Valuable Artistic Works

St Nicholas Church is a single-nave stone building with a square apse, located next to the old town cemetery.

Its façade is characterised by well-crafted stone blocks, a Renaissance portal, and a decorative rose window with ten petals, executed in a transitional Gothic-Renaissance style. Above the roof rises a bell tower with two bells.

Among the preserved details of the oldest church, the stone font near the side entrance is particularly interesting. It is adorned with depictions of bearded human heads at the corners and a cross in the centre.

The most valuable artistic piece inside is the lavish gilded wooden altar depicting St Nicholas, St Andrew, and St Anthony. Crafted by the Venetian woodcarver Antonio Porri in the early 17th century, it is considered one of the significant works of ecclesiastical art preserved in Stari Grad.

The church also contains ten wooden statues of apostles, created by the Venetian master Francesco Ciabatta in the 17th century. These statues originally belonged to the parish church of St Stephen and were transferred to St Nicholas Church in the 19th century.

In addition to the main altar, the church features altars dedicated to St Jerome, Our Lady of the Annunciation, St Cross, and St Reparata.

The Church of Stari Grad's Sailors and Fishermen

The special significance of St Nicholas Church arises from its connection to the brotherhood of Stari Grad's sailors and fishermen.

St Nicholas, the bishop of Myra in Asia Minor, is traditionally revered as the protector of sailors, travellers, and fishermen. According to Christian tradition, his protection is associated with saving people from storms and dangers at sea.

In Stari Grad, this devotion has been particularly strong due to the long-standing maritime tradition. The sailors' brotherhood took care of the church, its maintenance, and religious customs.

After surviving storms and shipwrecks, sailors would donate votive items to the church as a sign of gratitude. Among these are paintings of sailing ships in storms, models of boats, and other items related to maritime journeys.

These votive offerings are not only religious artefacts but also valuable historical traces of the lives of people who have sailed the Adriatic and Mediterranean for centuries.

They reflect the everyday life of maritime families, for whom going to sea often meant prolonged separation and uncertainty about their return.

Burning the Old Ship – A Unique Custom for St Nicholas Day

One of the most well-known customs in Stari Grad takes place every year on 5 December, the eve of St Nicholas Day.

In front of St Nicholas Church, an old wooden ship is traditionally set ablaze, symbolically expressing gratitude and seeking protection for sailors.

This custom has deep roots in the local maritime culture. The ship is symbolically sacrificed to St Nicholas, the protector of those who live by and from the sea.

The gathering around the burning ship connects religious tradition with the identity of Stari Grad. For the locals, it serves as a reminder of generations of sailors, fishermen, and shipbuilders who have shaped its history.

On the feast day of St Nicholas, 6 December, the protector of sailors is celebrated, and the church once again becomes the centre of local religious tradition.

For visitors coming to Hvar outside the summer season, this custom offers a particularly interesting opportunity to experience the island's authentic cultural heritage.

The Sealed Hermitess Lukrica from Brač

One of the more unusual stories from the religious history of Stari Grad is associated with St Nicholas Church.

On the southern side of the church, a small stone room was added in the 16th century for hermitic living.

According to historical records, in 1559, a woman named Lukrica, originally from the island of Brač, withdrew into it. She chose a life of voluntary solitude, devoted to prayer and penance.

Local tradition holds that she spent as long as 35 years in that room, separated from the outside world. Although the details of her life cannot be fully historically verified, the existence of Lukrica's hermitage is recorded in church documentation from the 16th century.

The small room was connected to the interior of the church by an opening next to the altar, allowing her to participate in religious life without leaving her solitude.

The story of Lukrica represents a rare and intriguing example of medieval and early modern hermitic tradition, which once existed on the Dalmatian islands.

St Reparata and the Relics of the Roman Martyr

Another unique aspect of St Nicholas Church is its association with the veneration of St Reparata, an early Christian martyr whose earthly remains were transferred to Stari Grad in 1890.

The relics arrived from Italy and were ceremoniously placed in St Nicholas Church on 9 July 1890, where they are kept on the altar of the Holy Martyrs.

The transfer of the relics was an important religious event for the local population, and the veneration of St Reparata continued through subsequent generations.

Special anniversaries of her arrival were marked with solemn masses and processions, further solidifying St Nicholas Church's place in the religious life of Stari Grad.

Location and How to Reach St Nicholas Church

St Nicholas Church is situated next to the old town cemetery, on the southern edge of the historic core of Stari Grad.

From the town quay and the centre of the settlement, it can be reached by a pleasant walk through the stone streets. The church's location, away from the busiest part of the old town, allows for a quieter exploration of its architecture and surroundings.

In front of the church stands a historic cypress tree planted in 1865, which has become a recognisable part of its immediate environment.

A visit to the church can be combined with a tour of the nearby Church of St Lucy, the early Christian Church of St John, and St Stephen's Square.

While it is possible to drive to the wider area of the southern part of the town, it is best to use public parking and continue on foot for the tour. The area around the church is not designated for tourist parking.

Why Visit St Nicholas Church?

St Nicholas Church is particularly interesting as it brings together several important aspects of Stari Grad's history in one place: medieval architecture, artistic heritage, maritime traditions, religious vows, and local customs.

Its gilded altars and votive offerings testify to the art and beliefs of former sailors, while the story of the hermitess Lukrica reveals a lesser-known side of the island's spiritual history.

However, what makes Mikula especially distinctive is that its tradition has not remained merely a part of the past. The burning of the old ship on the eve of St Nicholas Day is a custom that continues to connect the residents with their maritime heritage.

Useful Information

• Location: Stari Grad, Hvar Island, Croatia
• Local Name: St Nicholas Church (Crkva sv. Mikule)
• Type of Attraction: Historical church, sacred monument, and centre of maritime tradition
• Oldest Parts: 12th/13th century
• Main Construction Phases: 15th and 16th century
• Architecture: Romanesque, Gothic, and Renaissance elements
• Highlights: Gilded wooden altar by Antonio Porri, votive paintings of sailors, and the hermit's room of Lukrica
• Patron: St Nicholas, protector of sailors and fishermen
• Feast Day: 6 December
• Traditional Custom: Burning of the old ship on 5 December, the eve of St Nicholas Day
• Additional Attraction: Relics of St Reparata, transferred to the church in 1890
• Cultural Status: Protected cultural heritage of the Republic of Croatia
• Access: On foot from the centre of Stari Grad
• Parking: Public parking in the surrounding urban area
• Nearby: Town cemetery, Church of St Lucy, Church of St John, and the historic core
• Recommended for: Lovers of history, sacred art, maritime heritage, and traditional island customs