St. Nicholas Church in Zastražišće – Parish Church Overlooking Biokovo
On a hill above the old hamlets of Zastražišće stands St. Nicholas Parish Church, one of the most significant historical buildings in the area and a recognizable landmark in this part of Hvar. Surrounded by cypress trees and a cemetery, the church is located above Mala Banda, offering views of the northern coast of the island, the Makarska Riviera, and the Biokovo massif.
Unlike the small churches scattered throughout the surroundings, St. Nicholas has been the main religious center of Zastražišće for centuries. The current structure did not emerge all at once but is the result of several phases of expansion and renovation that have accompanied the development of the area from the 16th century to the present day.
The Church is Mentioned as Early as 1579
The parish church of St. Nicholas is first reliably mentioned in 1579 during a church visitation. It is believed to be not significantly older than the 16th century, as the residents of this area used an older church dedicated to St. Barbara before its construction.
The original church was very small. As the population grew, there was so little space that some worshippers could not fit inside during mass.
In 1771, the bishop approved its expansion, but due to the limited resources of the local population at the time, the work progressed slowly. By the end of the 18th century, builder Mihovil Raffanelli took over the project, and significant renovations and expansions were completed around 1801 and 1802.
Facade, Rose Window, and Later Bell Tower Addition
During the major expansion, the church was extended to the west, receiving a new facade, main portal, side windows, a rose window, and a redesigned interior.
The sacristy at the back of the church was added in 1897, while the bell tower that now dominates the southwest corner of the facade is much younger. It was built in 1980 based on a design created in 1957.
The bell tower houses three bells: the largest dates from 1909, while the medium and smaller ones are from 1924. Above the entrance to the bell tower is a memorial plaque dedicated to the parish priest don Drago Lovrić.
Valuable Interior
Although it appears simple from the outside, the interior preserves several valuable details from various periods.
The main altar is made of stone and multi-colored marble. Alongside it are wooden statues of St. Spyridon and St. Nicholas, and above the altar is a painting of St. Nicholas acquired in the late 19th century.
Particularly interesting is the side altar of Our Lady of the Rosary, which is mentioned as early as the late 17th century. Its altar painting depicts part of Jelsa, while in front of the painting stands a statue of Our Lady of the Rosary from 1901.
On the other side of the church is the altar of the Sacred Heart of Jesus. Such details best illustrate that the interior has changed and been supplemented alongside the history of the parish.
St. Nicholas – Protector of Zastražišće
St. Nicholas is the protector of the place, and his feast day is celebrated in Zastražišće on December 6.
The church remains an active center of parish life. It is associated with local processions and customs, among which the tradition of the procession related to Good Friday and Velika Stiniva is particularly interesting.
Therefore, St. Nicholas is not only a historical building to be visited but also a place that still plays an important role in the life of Zastražišće.
View Towards the Sea and Biokovo
The location of the church is one of the reasons to visit, even if the interior cannot be viewed.
The church is situated on a secluded hill above Mala Banda, and the area around it offers a wide view to the north. On clear days, Biokovo and the Makarska Riviera across the Hvar Channel are clearly visible.
In close proximity is the Zastražišće cemetery, while below the church are the old stone houses of Mala Banda. This combination of the church, cypress trees, stone, and open views gives this place a completely different character from the coastal coves of Zastražišće.
Can the Church Be Visited Internally?
St. Nicholas Church is an active parish church, but there is no published regular schedule for tourist visits.
Therefore, upon arrival, one should not assume that the doors will always be open. The interior is most likely accessible during worship services and special church events, while it is best to check in advance with the Parish of St. Nicholas in Zastražišće for guaranteed entry.
The exterior of the church, the area around it, and the view from the hill can be explored regardless of whether the church is open.
It is Worth Including in a Tour of Zastražišće
Most tourists become acquainted with Zastražišće through its coves – Vela Stiniva, Dubac, Kruševo, or Pokrivenik. St. Nicholas Church offers a completely different perspective on the place.
Here, one can see the old Zastražišće in the interior of the island, composed of small hamlets and stone houses, which developed long before the rise of tourist accommodation by the sea.
If only the village is being visited, it is worthwhile to connect St. Nicholas Church with the older hamlets of Zastražišće and other historical sites in the interior.
Useful Information
- Name: St. Nicholas Parish Church
- Location: Zastražišće, Hvar Island
- Area: Mala Banda
- Position: on a hill above the old part of Zastražišće
- First Written Mention: 1579
- Major Expansion: late 18th and early 19th century
- Sacristy: added in 1897
- Bell Tower: built in 1980
- Interior: main stone-marble altar, statues of St. Nicholas and St. Spyridon, and side altars
- Protector of the Place: St. Nicholas
- Feast of St. Nicholas: December 6
- Interior Visits: no published regular schedule for tourist visits; the church may be locked, so it is best to check in advance with the Parish of St. Nicholas
- Access: local road through the Zastražišće area towards Mala Banda
- Parking: there is no confirmed large organized tourist parking near the church; vehicles should be parked so as not to obstruct local traffic and access to the cemetery
- Nearby: Zastražišće cemetery and old stone houses of Mala Banda
- View: towards the northern coast of Hvar, the Makarska Riviera, and Biokovo
- Special Feature: for centuries the main religious center of Zastražišće in one of the most beautiful locations above the village
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