St Nicholas Church in Zastražišće – Parish Church with a View of Biokovo

Perched on a hill above the old hamlets of Zastražišće, St Nicholas Church serves as one of the most significant historical buildings in the area and a notable landmark in this part of Hvar. Surrounded by cypress trees and a cemetery, the church overlooks Mala Banda, offering views of the northern coast of the island, the Makarska Riviera, and the Biokovo massif.

Unlike the small chapels scattered throughout the region, St Nicholas has been the main religious centre of Zastražišće for centuries. The current structure did not emerge all at once but is the result of several phases of expansion and renovation that have accompanied the development of the village from the 16th century to the present day.

The Church is First Mentioned in 1579

The parish church of St Nicholas is first reliably mentioned in 1579 during a church visitation. It is believed not to be significantly older than the 16th century, as the inhabitants of this area previously used an older church dedicated to St Barbara.

The original church was quite small. As the population grew, there was so little space that some worshippers could not fit inside during mass.

In 1771, the bishop approved its expansion, but due to the limited resources of the local population at the time, the work progressed slowly. By the end of the 18th century, builder Mihovil Raffanelli took over the project, and the major reconstruction and expansion were completed around 1801 and 1802.

Facade, Rose Window, and Later Bell Tower Addition

During the significant expansion, the church was extended to the west, receiving a new facade, main portal, side windows, a rose window, and a redesigned interior.

The sacristy at the back of the church was added in 1897, while the bell tower that now dominates the southwest corner of the facade is considerably younger, having been built in 1980 based on a design created in 1957.

The bell tower houses three bells: the largest dates from 1909, while the medium and smaller bells were cast in 1924. Above the entrance to the bell tower is a plaque commemorating the parish priest, Don Drago Lovrić.

Valuable Interior

Although it appears simple from the outside, the interior houses several valuable details from various periods.

The main altar is made of stone and multi-coloured marble. Flanking it are wooden statues of St Spiridon and St Nicholas, with a painting of St Nicholas above the altar, acquired in the late 19th century.

Particularly interesting is the side altar dedicated to Our Lady of the Rosary, which is mentioned as early as the late 17th century. Its altar painting features a depiction of part of Jelsa, while in front of the painting stands a statue of Our Lady of the Rosary from 1901.

On the opposite side of the church is the altar of the Sacred Heart of Jesus. Such details best illustrate how the interior has changed and been supplemented alongside the history of the parish.

St Nicholas – Protector of Zastražišće

St Nicholas is the patron saint of the village, and his feast day is celebrated in Zastražišće on 6 December.

The church remains an active centre of parish life. Local processions and customs are associated with it, among which the tradition of the procession linked to Good Friday and Velika Stiniva is particularly noteworthy.

Thus, St Nicholas is not merely a historical building to be viewed but a place that continues to play an important role in the life of Zastražišće.

View Towards the Sea and Biokovo

The church's location is one reason to visit, even if the interior cannot be explored.

Situated on a secluded hill above Mala Banda, the area around the church offers a wide view to the north. On clear days, Biokovo and the Makarska Riviera across the Hvar Channel are clearly visible.

Nearby lies the Zastražišće cemetery, while below the church, old stone houses of Mala Banda descend the hillside. This combination of the church, cypress trees, stone, and open views gives the place a distinctly different character from the coastal coves of Zastražišće.

Can the Church be Visited Inside?

St Nicholas Church is an active parish church, but there is no published regular schedule for tourist visits.

Therefore, one should not assume that the doors will always be open upon arrival. The interior is most likely accessible during services and special church events, but for a guaranteed visit, it is best to check in advance with the Parish of St Nicholas in Zastražišće.

The exterior of the church, the surrounding area, and the view from the hill can be explored regardless of whether the church is open.

Worth Including in a Tour of Zastražišće

Most tourists become acquainted with Zastražišće through its coves – Vela Stiniva, Dubac, Kruševo, or Pokrivenik. St Nicholas Church offers a completely different perspective on the village.

Here, one can see the old Zastražišće in the interior of the island, composed of small hamlets and stone houses, which developed long before the rise of tourist accommodation by the sea.

If only the village is being explored, it is worthwhile to connect St Nicholas Church with the older hamlets of Zastražišće and other historical sites in the interior.

Useful Information

  • Name: Parish Church of St Nicholas
  • Location: Zastražišće, Hvar Island
  • Area: Mala Banda
  • Position: on a hill above the old part of Zastražišće
  • First Written Mention: 1579
  • Major Expansion: late 18th and early 19th century
  • Sacristy: added in 1897
  • Bell Tower: built in 1980
  • Interior: main stone-marble altar, statues of St Nicholas and St Spiridon, and side altars
  • Patron Saint: St Nicholas
  • Feast Day of St Nicholas: 6 December
  • Interior Visits: no published regular schedule for tourist visits; the church may be locked, so it is best to check in advance with the Parish of St Nicholas
  • Access: via local road through the Zastražišće area towards Mala Banda
  • Parking: there is no confirmed large designated tourist parking near the church; vehicles should be parked without obstructing local traffic and access to the cemetery
  • Nearby: Zastražišće cemetery and old stone houses of Mala Banda
  • View: towards the northern coast of Hvar, the Makarska Riviera, and Biokovo
  • Notable Feature: for centuries the main religious centre of Zastražišće in one of the most beautiful locations above the village