Smokova Beach (Vela Smokova) Vis – sandy wild cove best accessed by boat

Smokova Beach, officially referred to by the Tourist Board of the Town of Vis as Vela Smokova, is located in a secluded cove on the southeastern coast of the island of Vis. It is one of the few true sandy beaches on the island, featuring sand on the shore and in the water, a long shallow area, and distinctly turquoise water.

Unlike Milna, Zaglava, or Stončica, Smokova does not have a settlement immediately behind the beach, hospitality facilities, or a paved road leading to the sea. It is surrounded by low rocky slopes, maquis, and pine trees, and a large part of the area around the cove has been connected to a military zone for decades.

As a result, it has remained almost completely undeveloped.

Today, Smokova is particularly popular among boaters and visitors exploring the eastern and southeastern coast of Vis by boat, while access by land is possible but much more challenging and should not be compared to a regular walk to the beach.

One of the few sandy beaches on Vis

The main feature of Smokova is its sandy beach.

It is not just a thin layer of fine material at the water's edge. A large part of the shore is sandy, and the sand continues underwater, creating a light bottom that gives the water a distinct blue and turquoise color.

The water along the shore is shallow and gradually deepens, allowing for considerable walking distance before it becomes deep.

This is a significant difference compared to many coves on Vis where the rocky shore quickly drops into deep water.

When the sea is calm, Smokova resembles a small Adriatic lagoon more than a typical rocky beach of Vis due to its sand and long shallow area.

Great for children – if accessed by boat

The beach itself is very suitable for children.

The sand, gentle entry into the water, and long shallow area provide much easier swimming than on rocky or coarse gravel beaches.

Children can stay in the shallow water for a long time, and the sand is practical for playing on the shore.

The issue is not the beach but the access by land.

If arriving by boat, Smokova can be one of the better family choices on Vis. However, if trying to reach it on foot with small children over unpaved terrain, the whole experience becomes much more complicated.

Therefore, I would primarily recommend Smokova to families with small children as a boat trip, rather than a walk to the beach.

The easiest way to get there is by boat

Smokova is naturally oriented towards the sea, and the boat is the easiest way to access it.

The cove is regularly visited by private boats, sailboats, and organized tours that explore the eastern side of Vis.

The ride from the town of Vis is not long, and Smokova can easily be connected with other coves in this part of the island, especially with Stončica and other beaches on the southeastern coast.

During July and August, this means that the cove is not always completely deserted.

There may be a few people on the beach, but several boats may be anchored in front of it at the same time. For the most peaceful experience, it is best to arrive early in the morning or later in the afternoon, outside the main rhythm of daily excursions.

Access by land is not a simple walk to the beach

On the map, Smokova may appear to be relatively easy to reach from the interior of the island.

In reality, access is much more complex.

There is an unmarked path leading to the cove through the former military training area of Smokova. The Tourist Board of the Town of Vis explicitly warns that the goat path from the former military area should be traversed with an experienced guide.

This is an important piece of information that should be taken seriously.

There is no marked tourist trail along the entire route, nor can a vehicle reach the beach itself.

Experiences from people who have come by land report more than half an hour of walking, and some approaches involve rocky terrain and a dry creek bed leading down to the cove.

Good closed shoes, sufficient water, and a good knowledge of the route are necessary for such an approach.

Flip-flops are not suitable footwear for this access.

There is no parking near the beach

There is no road leading to Smokova where a car could be parked just above the shore.

Therefore, there is no classic situation like at beaches that can be reached by car within a few dozen meters.

The vehicle must be left significantly earlier, and the last part must be traversed on foot over unpaved terrain.

This is another reason why a boat is far more practical for most tourists.

If a sandy beach that is easily accessible by car or a short paved path is sought, Milna or Stončica would be much simpler choices.

Smokova is interesting precisely because it is not like that.

Shade is limited and not directly along the entire shore

On the main sandy part of the beach, one should not expect much natural shade.

Pines exist a bit deeper into the cove, and there are some shaded spots there, as confirmed by the official Tourist Board of Vis.

However, this is not a beach like Srebrna or Grandovac where the forest almost touches a large part of the shore.

If planning to spend several hours at Smokova, it is necessary to bring sun protection, especially for children.

A sunshade can be very useful, but it should be noted that it is not always easy to secure it in harder or windy areas.

There are no bars, restaurants, or shops

Smokova is a true wild beach.

There are no beach bars, restaurants, shops, showers, or other reliable tourist facilities.

Everything needed during the stay must be brought along.

The most important is water.

If arriving by land during the summer, it is necessary to bring significantly more water than for a regular short visit to a city beach, as one must also account for the return walk in the sun.

Food and packaging must be taken back after the visit. In such isolated beaches, waste left behind by visitors quickly becomes a problem as there is no daily municipal cleaning like at urban bathing areas.

Sunken wing of a World War II airplane

Smokova also has an unusual underwater attraction.

On the eastern side of the cove, about a hundred meters from the beach, at a depth of only about two meters, there is a part of a wing from a World War II airplane.

Due to the shallow depth, the remains can be seen while snorkeling when the sea is calm and visibility is good.

This is not a developed underwater tourist attraction with a marked route nor a complete airplane wreck.

It is a preserved part of the airplane that has been lying on the seabed for decades and has become part of the local story about the cove.

It is best to observe and photograph it without moving or touching the remains.

A good spot for snorkeling

In addition to the airplane wing, the rocky edges of the cove are also interesting.

While the central part of the seabed is mostly sandy and relatively simple, there is more marine life and a more varied substrate near the rocks.

This is the best part for exploring the underwater world with a mask and snorkel.

Due to the clear water, visibility can be excellent.

However, when moving away from the beach, care should be taken with boats entering and leaving the cove, especially during the main season.

Boaters are well acquainted with Smokova

Vela Smokova has long been known among those sailing around Vis.

The cove is deeply recessed, and the sandy bottom is attractive for anchoring, so during calm summer weather, several sailboats and motorboats can often be seen in front of the beach.

This has a downside as well.

Smokova may appear to be a completely empty cove in photographs, but during July and August, it is not necessarily deserted, especially between late morning and mid-afternoon.

For more peace, it is best to choose the edge of the season or arrive before the main wave of boat excursions.

What to bring?

Planning for Smokova is more important than at most urban beaches on Vis.

The most important items are sufficient water, sun protection, and food if staying longer.

Good footwear is necessary for access by land, while a mask and snorkel are useful for swimming due to the airplane wing and rocky edges of the cove.

Water shoes are not particularly needed on the main sandy part since the gentle entry is one of the beach's greatest advantages.

If arriving by boat, it is practical to bring everything needed for a few hours as there are no places to buy anything after disembarking on the beach.

Smokova or Zaglav?

Both beaches are known for their sand, but the experience is completely different.

Zaglav is easier to fit into a classic day at the beach. It is accessed on foot from the Milna area, the access is more familiar, and it is closer to populated parts of the island.

Smokova is more secluded, wilder, and much harder to access by land.

If a simple trip to a nice sandy beach is desired, Zaglav is more practical.

If exploring the island by boat and looking for a natural cove without houses and tourist development, Smokova is a more interesting choice.

Smokova or Stončica?

Stončica is a completely different type of beach.

It is also sandy and suitable for children, but it has easy road access in the wider area, a paved path, a restaurant, and much more infrastructure.

Smokova has almost none of that.

Therefore, Stončica is better for a family wanting a practical full day at the beach, while Smokova is more suitable for guests seeking a boat trip, wild nature, and a sense of distance from settlements.

A beach preserved from development by isolation

The greatest value of Smokova is not just the sand.

There are other beautiful sandy beaches on Vis.

The uniqueness lies in the fact that behind the shore there is no row of apartments, roads, parking lots, or restaurants. The cove has long been part of a military area, and this isolation has helped it remain almost undeveloped.

Today, it is easiest to reach it by the same route that has naturally surrounded this part of Vis for centuries – by sea.

When arriving at a time without a large number of boats, one is greeted with a wide sandy shore, shallow turquoise water, and hills covered with maquis with almost no construction on the horizon.

For a visitor exploring the coast of Vis by boat and seeking one of the most beautiful natural sandy coves of the island, Smokova Beach or Vela Smokova is certainly worth a stop.