Smokova Beach (Vela Smokova), Vis – a sandy wild cove best accessed by boat

Smokova Beach, officially referred to by the Tourist Board of the town of Vis as Vela Smokova, is situated in a secluded cove on the southeast coast of the island of Vis. It is one of the few genuine sandy beaches on the island, featuring sand both on the shore and in the water, a long shallow area, and strikingly turquoise water.

Unlike Milna, Zaglava, or Stončica, Smokova lacks a settlement immediately behind the beach, hospitality facilities, or a paved road leading to the sea. It is surrounded by low rocky slopes, maquis, and pine trees, and a large portion of the area around the cove has been linked to a military zone for decades.

This is precisely why it has remained almost entirely undeveloped.

Today, Smokova is particularly popular among boaters and visitors exploring the eastern and southeastern coast of Vis by boat, although access by land is possible, it is considerably more challenging and should not be compared to a simple walk to the beach.

One of the few sandy beaches on Vis

The main feature of Smokova is its sandy beach.

It is not merely a thin layer of fine material at the water's edge. The majority of the shore is sandy, and the sand continues underwater, creating a light bottom that gives the water its distinct blue and turquoise hues.

The water along the shore is shallow and gradually deepens, allowing one to walk quite far out before it becomes deep.

This is a significant difference compared to many coves on Vis where the rocky shore quickly drops into deep water.

When the sea is calm, Smokova resembles a small Adriatic lagoon more than a typical rocky beach on Vis due to its sand and long shallow area.

Ideal for children – if accessed by boat

The beach itself is very suitable for children.

The sand, gentle entry into the water, and long shallow area provide much simpler swimming conditions than rocky or coarse pebble beaches.

Children can spend a long time in the shallow water, and the sand is practical for playing on the shore.

The issue is not the beach but rather the access by land.

If arriving by boat, Smokova can be one of the nicer family options on Vis. However, attempting to reach it on foot with small children across unmarked terrain complicates the entire experience.

Therefore, I would primarily recommend Smokova to families with young children as a boat trip, rather than a walk to the beach.

The easiest way to reach it is by boat

Smokova is naturally oriented towards the sea, and the boat is the simplest means of access.

The cove is regularly visited by private boats, sailing vessels, and organised excursions that explore the eastern side of Vis.

The journey from the town of Vis is not long, and Smokova can easily be linked with other coves in this part of the island, particularly Stončica and other beaches along the southeastern coast.

During July and August, this means that the cove is not always completely deserted.

There may be a few people on the beach, but several boats can be anchored in front of it at the same time. For the most tranquil experience, it is best to arrive early in the morning or later in the afternoon, outside the main rhythm of daily excursions.

Access by land is not a simple walk to the beach

On the map, Smokova may appear to be relatively easy to reach from the interior of the island.

In reality, access is much more complicated.

A rough path leads to the cove through the area of the former Smokova military training ground. The Tourist Board of the town of Vis explicitly warns that the goat path from the former military area should be traversed with an experienced guide.

This is an important piece of information that should be taken seriously.

There is no designated tourist path with the entire route marked by signs, nor can a vehicle reach the beach itself.

Experiences from those who have approached by land suggest a walking time of over half an hour, with some approaches involving rocky terrain and a dry creek bed leading down to the cove.

Good sturdy shoes, sufficient water, and a good knowledge of the route are necessary for such an approach.

Flip-flops are not suitable footwear for this access.

No parking near the beach

There is no road leading to Smokova where a car could be left just above the shore.

Therefore, there is no typical situation as found at beaches that can be reached by car within a few dozen metres.

A vehicle must be left significantly earlier, and the final part must be traversed on foot over unmarked terrain.

This is another reason why a boat is far more practical for most tourists.

If a sandy beach that can be easily reached by car or a short marked path is sought, Milna or Stončica would be much simpler choices.

Smokova is interesting precisely because it is not like that.

Little shade and not directly along the entire shore

On the main sandy part of the beach, one should not expect much natural shade.

Pine trees are found somewhat deeper inland in the cove, and there are a few shaded spots there, as confirmed by the official Tourist Board of Vis.

However, this is not a beach like Srebrna or Grandovac where the forest almost touches a large part of the shore.

If planning to spend several hours at Smokova, it is essential to bring sun protection, especially for children.

A sunshade can be very useful, but it should be noted that it is not always easy to secure it on hard or windy areas.

No beach bar, restaurant, or shop

Smokova is a true wild beach.

There are no beach bars, restaurants, shops, showers, or other reliable tourist facilities.

Everything needed during the stay must be brought along.

The most important item is water.

If arriving by land during the summer, it is necessary to bring significantly more water than for a regular short visit to a town beach, as one must also account for the return walk in the sun.

Food and packaging must be taken away after the visit. At such isolated beaches, waste left behind by visitors quickly becomes a problem as there is no daily municipal cleaning like at urban bathing spots.

Sunken wing of a World War II plane

Smokova also has an unusual underwater attraction.

On the eastern side of the cove, approximately a hundred metres from the beach, at a depth of about two metres, lies a part of a wing from a World War II plane.

Due to the shallow depth, the remains can be seen while snorkelling when the sea is calm and visibility is good.

This is not a designated underwater tourist attraction with a marked route nor a complete plane wreck.

It is a preserved part of the aircraft that has been lying on the seabed for decades and has become part of the local lore about the cove.

It is best to simply observe and photograph it without moving or touching the remains.

A good spot for snorkelling

Besides the plane wing, the rocky edges of the cove are also interesting.

While the central part of the seabed is mostly sandy and relatively simple, there is more marine life and a more varied substrate near the rocks.

This is the best area for exploring the underwater world with a mask and snorkel.

Due to the clear water, visibility can be excellent.

However, when moving away from the beach, care should be taken regarding boats entering and leaving the cove, especially during the peak season.

Boaters are well acquainted with Smokova

Vela Smokova has long been known among those sailing around Vis.

The cove is deeply recessed, and the sandy bottom is attractive for anchoring, so during calm summer weather, several sailing and motor boats can often be seen in front of the beach.

This has a downside as well.

Smokova may appear as a completely empty cove in photographs, but during July and August, it is not necessarily deserted, especially between late morning and mid-afternoon.

For more peace, it is best to choose the edge of the season or arrive before the main wave of boat excursions.

What to bring?

Planning for Smokova is more important than at most urban beaches on Vis.

The most crucial items are sufficient water, sun protection, and food if staying longer.

Good footwear is necessary for access by land, while a mask and snorkel are useful for swimming due to the plane wing and rocky edges of the cove.

Water shoes are not particularly needed on the main sandy part as the gentle entry is one of the beach's greatest advantages.

If arriving by boat, it is practical to bring everything needed for a few hours as there are no places to buy anything after disembarking on the beach.

Smokova or Zaglav?

Both beaches are known for their sand, but the experience is entirely different.

Zaglav is easier to incorporate into a classic day at the beach. It can be reached on foot from the Milna area, the access is more familiar, and it is closer to populated parts of the island.

Smokova is more secluded, wilder, and much harder to access by land.

If a simple trip to a lovely sandy beach is desired, Zaglav is more practical.

If exploring the island by boat and looking for a natural cove without houses and tourist development, Smokova is a more interesting choice.

Smokova or Stončica?

Stončica is a completely different type of beach.

It is also sandy and child-friendly, but it has easy road access in the wider area, a marked path, a restaurant, and much more infrastructure.

Smokova has almost none of that.

Therefore, Stončica is better for a family wanting a practical full day at the beach, while Smokova is more suited to visitors seeking a boat trip, wild nature, and a sense of distance from settlements.

A beach preserved from development by its isolation

The greatest value of Smokova is not just its sand.

There are other beautiful sandy beaches on Vis.

The uniqueness lies in the fact that behind the shore there is no row of apartments, roads, parking, or restaurants. The cove has long been part of a military area, and this isolation has helped it remain almost undeveloped.

Today, the easiest way to reach it is by the same route that has naturally been used to explore this part of Vis for centuries – by sea.

When arriving at a time without a large number of boats, one is greeted by a wide sandy shore, shallow turquoise water, and hills covered in maquis with almost no development on the horizon.

For a visitor exploring the coast of Vis by boat and seeking one of the most beautiful natural sandy coves on the island, Smokova Beach, or Vela Smokova, is certainly worth a stop.