Uvala Livka – a hidden beach at the far east of Šolta
Uvala Livka is situated at the southeastern end of Šolta, not far from the Splitska vrata and opposite the western coast of Brač. It is the last significant bay on Šolta heading east, distanced from settlements and surrounded by pine trees, maquis, and rocky slopes.
Livka is large and deeply recessed into the land, but it does not have the appearance of a developed tourist destination. There is no promenade, shops, or a series of restaurants along the shore, and access is not as straightforward as to the beaches in Stomorska or Nečujam. Its seclusion makes it particularly suitable for those who appreciate natural bays and do not mind a less convenient approach.
At the end of the bay, there are smaller natural areas suitable for swimming. The seabed consists of a mix of stones, pebbles, and rocks, with the most pleasant entry into the water where the shore is gentler and features finer stones. Water shoes are advisable due to the uneven terrain, slippery rocks, and the possibility of sea urchins.
The water is generally very clear, and during calm weather, it takes on green and turquoise hues along the shore. Livka is good for swimming and snorkelling, especially along the rocky edges of the bay. Further from the shore, the sea deepens, and during the summer, sailing boats and motorboats may be anchored in the bay, so swimmers should be cautious of their passage.
Waves from ferries and boats
Livka is close to the Splitska vrata, the maritime passage between Šolta and Brač, through which ferries, catamarans, and other vessels pass daily. Their waves can enter the bay even when the weather is completely calm.
As a result, the sea can sometimes unexpectedly wash over the rocks and shore just minutes after a larger vessel has passed. Towels, bags, and footwear should not be left right by the water, and children should be supervised even when there is no wind.
It is usually calmest early in the morning, before the increased daytime traffic through the Splitska vrata.
Shade and facilities
Along certain parts of the shore, natural shade can be found from the pine trees and surrounding vegetation, but it is not evenly distributed. In open rocky areas, the sun can be quite intense for most of the day.
There are no public showers, changing cabins, toilets, lifeguards, or organised rentals of sun loungers and umbrellas at Livka. Visitors should not expect a beach bar, restaurant, or shop to be open.
Water, food, an umbrella, and all other necessities for your stay should be brought along before departure. It is safest to stock up in Gornje Selo, Stomorska, or Grohote.
How to reach Livka
Access to Livka from Gornje Selo is via a local, rural, and gravel road through the interior of the eastern part of Šolta. The route passes through uninhabited areas, alongside olive groves, forests, and maquis.
You can get close to some outer parts of the bay by car, but the road is not maintained like a standard beach access. The gravel can be narrow, rocky, overgrown, or damaged after rain.
I would not recommend descending with a regular car that has a low chassis without checking the road first. It is safest to leave the vehicle at a permitted widening before the poorer section and continue on foot.
The exact duration of the walk depends on the condition of the road and where the car can be safely parked. Sturdy shoes or sandals are more suitable than flip-flops for the journey.
In summer, it is best to set off early in the morning as there is little shade along the way and limited opportunities to procure water. The return journey inland involves an ascent and can be strenuous during the hottest part of the day.
Parking
There is no designated public parking near the bathing area. The widenings along the gravel are small and primarily serve for passing and turning vehicles.
Cars should not be left in the middle of the road, in front of an olive grove entrance, next to a closed barrier, or at the entrance to private land. A safe parking spot may be quite far from the sea.
Camper vans, larger vans, and vehicles with trailers are not practical for this route due to narrow sections and limited turning options.
Arriving by boat and anchoring
Livka is better known to sailors than to beachgoers arriving by land. The bay is spacious and can provide good shelter from the bora, with anchoring possible at a depth of approximately ten metres.
There is no marina in Livka, nor are there organised transit berths, connections for electricity and water, or other nautical services. Anchoring should be done with care, checking the depth, type of seabed, and distance from other vessels.
Boats should not be brought too close to the shore or the area where people are swimming. Due to the waves created by vessels in the Splitska vrata, anchored boats can move even in completely calm conditions.
The bay is not safe when southerly winds are blowing. In such conditions, with waves coming from the open sea, it is advisable to leave Livka in good time and seek a safer anchorage.
Livka with children
Livka may be of interest to families with older children who are accustomed to natural beaches and rocky shores. It is not particularly practical for small children due to the long and uneven access, lack of toilets, and the potential for sudden waves from boats.
There are no lifeguards or designated swimming areas on the beach. Children should be constantly supervised, especially on slippery rocks and when there are vessels in the bay.
The access is not suitable for pushchairs or for those with reduced mobility. There is no constructed ramp leading to the shore, and the final sections of the path can be very uneven.
When to visit Livka
For land access, June and September are the most pleasant months, when temperatures are not too high and there are fewer boats in the bay. In July and August, it is best to set off early in the morning.
Before departure, it is advisable to check the direction and strength of the wind. Livka is not a good destination when a southerly wind is expected, and waves from passing ferries can occur even during completely stable weather.
After bad weather or strong southerlies, seaweed, branches, and other natural materials may wash up on the shore. Livka is not a maintained urban beach that is cleaned daily, so its appearance depends on the sea and weather conditions.
Who will enjoy Livka
Livka is a good choice for visitors who appreciate remote bays, clear waters, swimming, and a stay without hospitality facilities. Arriving by land requires time, sturdy footwear, sufficient water, and a bit more preparation.
It may be less suitable for guests seeking easy access by car, secure parking by the beach, sun loungers, a restaurant, or a well-equipped family beach.
When the weather is calm, Livka offers a unique view towards Brač and the maritime passage between the two islands. It is not the simplest beach to visit, but its distance, natural coastline, and sense of seclusion are its greatest assets.
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