Gornji Pelinovik Beach – a tranquil southern cove beneath Bogomolje
Gornji Pelinovik Beach is located on the southern coast of eastern Hvar, just east of Donji Pelinovik and a few kilometres below Bogomolje. The cove is small and deeply indented into the coastline, surrounded by rocky slopes covered in Mediterranean vegetation, with only a handful of houses by the sea.
This beach is typical of this part of Hvar – lacking extensive tourist infrastructure, beach bars, and rows of sun loungers, yet offering very clear waters and enough peace to enjoy a relaxing day by the shore even in the height of summer.
At the end of the cove, there is a small natural pebble beach. The shore is predominantly pebbly, while the seabed within Gornji Pelinovik is largely sandy. This sandy bottom gives the water beautiful blue and turquoise hues on sunny, calm days.
Gornji and Donji Pelinovik – two neighbouring coves
Pelinovik is not a single large cove.
Along this short stretch of the southern coast, there are Donji Pelinovik to the west and Gornji Pelinovik to the east. Both belong to the Bogomolje area and are very close to each other, yet each has its own small beach and separate bay.
Gornji Pelinovik extends east towards the cove of Lađena, while to the west of Donji Pelinovik lies Smrska.
This entire stretch is one of the quietest parts of the southern coast of eastern Hvar, with a small number of houses and coves that still retain an almost Robinson Crusoe-like character.
A small pebble beach
The main swimming area is located at the very end of Gornji Pelinovik.
The beach is neither large nor wide. The shore is dominated by pebbles and smaller stones, while natural rocks begin at the sides of the cove.
This small size is actually one of its advantages. There is no space for hundreds of bathers or large organised beach infrastructure, allowing the cove to maintain a much calmer atmosphere compared to the well-known beaches of western Hvar.
There are a few houses by the sea, but no proper tourist resort.
Sandy seabed
One of the most pleasant features of Gornji Pelinovik lies beneath the water.
In the interior of the cove, the seabed is predominantly sandy, making the water very pleasant for swimming and anchoring.
The sand is particularly visible in calm weather when the sun illuminates the shallower part of the cove, giving the water a lighter colour.
Thus, Gornji Pelinovik is sometimes perceived as a sandy cove, but for bathers, it is more accurate to expect a pebble beach at the shore and a sandy seabed in the water.
Entry into the water and depth
Entry into the sea from the main beach is relatively straightforward.
After the initial pebbly stretch, the seabed transitions to sand, and the depth increases gradually. There is no sudden rocky drop immediately off the shore as found in some open parts of southern Hvar.
This makes Gornji Pelinovik pleasant for children who can enter the water independently.
Along the sides of the cove, the shore becomes rockier, making these areas more interesting for snorkelling and exploring the underwater world.
Limited natural shade
The surrounding slopes are covered in Mediterranean vegetation, but on the main beach itself, one should not expect a large area of dense natural shade throughout the day.
Some shade can be found along the edges of the cove and near the houses, depending on the position of the sun, but for a full day’s stay in summer, it is advisable to bring a sunshade or other protection.
Gornji Pelinovik faces south, so it is well-sunned for most of the day.
No beach bar or other facilities
Gornji Pelinovik is one of those beaches where preparation is essential.
There is no classic beach bar, public toilet, shower, shop, or organised sunbed rental immediately by the beach.
A few houses in the cove are mostly associated with private and Robinson-style accommodation, so their facilities should not be counted as public beach infrastructure.
For a few hours by the sea, it is best to bring:
enough water
food or snacks
sun protection
towels and swimming gear
footwear for the sea if planning to walk on the rocks
Shops and other basic services are located up in Bogomolje.
How to reach Gornji Pelinovik
Gornji Pelinovik can be reached by car from Bogomolje.
From the village, a local road descends towards the southern coast leading to Pelinovik, Smrska, and neighbouring coves. Most of this area is connected by narrow local and gravel roads.
Gornji Pelinovik is among the more accessible coves in this stretch – it is possible to drive directly into the area of the cove.
However, one should not expect a well-maintained wide asphalt road. The final approach is gravel and can be uneven, so it is advisable to drive slowly, especially with a lower vehicle.
The condition of the road may change after winter and heavy rains.
Parking
There is no large, organised public parking area by the beach.
In the cove and along the access road, there is limited space for vehicles, but some spots belong to private houses and accommodation facilities.
Cars should be parked in appropriate widenings or other places where they will not obstruct the passage of other vehicles and access to houses.
Gornji Pelinovik is also practical as a place to leave a car if one wishes to continue on foot to the neighbouring cove of Lađena, which is not as easily accessible by road.
Gornji Pelinovik as a starting point to Lađena
Immediately east of Gornji Pelinovik lies the cove of Lađena.
There is a walking connection between them, so Gornji Pelinovik can be used as a starting point for heading to this even more secluded cove.
This is an interesting option for visitors who wish to combine swimming with a short walk along the natural southern coast.
Appropriate footwear is necessary for walking as it is not a paved coastal promenade.
Good natural anchorage
Gornji Pelinovik is particularly appealing to sailors.
The cove is well protected from almost all winds except the south. Anchoring is possible at depths of approximately 2 to 10 metres, and the seabed is sandy, allowing the anchor to hold well.
For daytime swimming and lunch on the boat, it is a very pleasant anchorage.
There are no organised commercial berths or marinas, so the natural character of the cove is felt even from the sea.
South wind is the main issue
Like Donji Pelinovik, Smrska, and other coves along this stretch, Gornji Pelinovik is open to the south.
In stronger southern winds, waves enter the cove directly, making it unsuitable for swimming or anchoring.
During winds from other directions, the cove is significantly better protected.
If strong southerly winds are forecast, it is much more sensible to head to the northern side of Bogomolje, for example towards Bristovi, Stari, or Pogorili.
Gornji or Donji Pelinovik?
The two coves are very similar and both are suitable for guests seeking tranquillity.
Donji Pelinovik is located slightly to the west and has its own small pebble beach with a sandy seabed.
Gornji Pelinovik is closer to Lađena and is more practical if one wishes to continue on foot to that neighbouring cove.
Both have very few facilities, a few houses, and a natural character. If staying in Bogomolje for several days, it is much better to dedicate a separate day to each rather than trying to visit all the coves in a few hours.
Robinson Crusoe character of the southern coast
The entire Pelinovik area is characterised by small houses by the sea and accommodation that often operates more simply than in conventional apartments in a settlement.
In this part of Hvar, gravel roads, solar energy, water tanks, and poor mobile signal are not uncommon.
This is precisely why visitors come to these coves for a holiday – a few days by the sea without the need for extensive tourist facilities.
For a day visitor, this means bringing everything necessary and not expecting to find a shop or restaurant immediately by the beach.
Who will Gornji Pelinovik suit best?
Gornji Pelinovik is best for guests who value peace, a small natural beach, and clear waters more than tourist amenities.
It is well-suited for couples, families willing to bring all necessary equipment, guests staying in Bogomolje, and sailors.
It is particularly interesting for those who wish to continue on foot to Lađena.
It is not the best choice for those seeking asphalt right to the water, large parking, beach bars, showers, and sunbeds.
This is a place to experience a different side of Hvar – a small pebble beach, sandy seabed, a few houses, and the tranquillity of the southern coast far from the main tourist centres on the island.
Useful information
Location: Gornji Pelinovik, Bogomolje, southern coast of Hvar
Type of beach: natural pebble beach
Shore: pebbles, small stones, and rocks at the edges
Seabed: predominantly sandy
Entry into the water: relatively easy
Depth: gradually increases
Natural shade: limited
Facilities: no classic tourist infrastructure
Access: by car via local and gravel roads or by boat
Parking: limited, without a large organised public parking area
Boat access: yes
Anchoring: approximately 2–10 m depth
Shelter: good from most winds, open to the south
Nearby cove: Lađena, accessible on foot from the Gornji Pelinovik area
Best for: peaceful swimming, nature, Robinson-style holidays, and sailors
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