Hvar Climbing Festival – an international climbing festival based in Jelsa
The Hvar Climbing Festival is one of the most intriguing outdoor events on the island of Hvar. The festival base is located in Jelsa, while the climbing activities take place on some of the island's most attractive natural cliffs, primarily at Vela Stiniva, Pokrivenik, and Lučišća.
Over several days, climbers from Croatia and other countries, ranging from recreational climbers to highly experienced sport climbers, gather on Hvar. In addition to free climbing, the programme includes a climbing marathon, presentations of new sectors, workshops, lectures, meetings with renowned climbers, and evening social events.
A unique feature of the festival is the combination of climbing and the sea. Some of the main climbing sites are just a few metres from the beach, allowing climbers to literally descend from the rock and take a dip in the Adriatic between ascents.
When does the Hvar Climbing Festival take place?
The Hvar Climbing Festival is held once a year, usually at the end of May or during June.
The dates are not fixed to the same weekend each year, but previous editions have generally lasted four days, most often from Thursday to Sunday.
The festival was first held in 2023 and has continued as an annual event since then. In recent years, the dates have ranged from late May to the second half of June, so it is advisable to check the current dates before planning a trip.
The exact dates, programme, registration details, and any benefits for participants are announced prior to each new edition.
Instagram for updates:
https://www.instagram.com/hvar_climbing/
Jelsa is the festival base
Although most of the climbing takes place on cliffs outside of Jelsa, Jelsa is the main base for the Hvar Climbing Festival.
Campsite Mina serves as accommodation for participants and a base for part of the accompanying programme. The campsite is located by the sea, approximately 500 metres from the centre of Jelsa, making it possible to walk to the town centre in about ten minutes.
This is convenient as participants return to a place where restaurants, shops, cafés, and other amenities are available after a day spent at the climbing sites.
Part of the evening festival programme is also held in Jelsa. In previous editions, meetings, sightseeing, and the announcement of the climbing marathon winners have been organised there.
Vela Stiniva – climbing right by the beach
One of the main locations of the festival is Vela Stiniva, on the northern coast of Hvar near Zastražišće.
The high limestone cliffs almost vertically enclose the cove, and a large number of climbing routes are located right by the sea. Traditionally, one of the central events of the festival – the climbing marathon – takes place at Vela Stiniva.
Climbers attempt to achieve as many ascents as possible within a set time, and the results are scored according to the rules of the specific edition.
A special experience at Vela Stiniva is the proximity of the sea. After climbing, it is just a few metres to the pebble beach where one can cool off in the water.
Pokrivenik – new sectors and climbing by the sea
Pokrivenik is another important festival location in the Zastražišće area.
The large cove is surrounded by high limestone cliffs, where new climbing routes and sectors have been continuously developed in recent years.
Most sectors are located approximately five to ten minutes' walk from the road, and the difficulty of the routes ranges from easier to very demanding.
The festival here often includes free climbing, presentations of new sectors, attempts at first ascents, and expert workshops.
As in Vela Stiniva, a significant advantage is the opportunity to combine climbing and swimming, as the cliffs and sea are very close.
Lučišća – challenging routes on the southern side of Hvar
The third important festival location is Lučišća, on the southern side of the island.
This climbing area particularly attracts more experienced athletes due to the large number of challenging lines, tufa formations, and long routes.
The routes start at approximately grade 5c, while a significant portion of the sectors belongs to much harder categories. In recent years, Lučišća has been one of the areas where new routes are actively opened and first ascents attempted.
As a result, the festival is not just a recreational gathering but also an opportunity for the development of new climbing areas on Hvar.
New routes and sectors
One of the unique aspects of the Hvar Climbing Festival is that the climbing infrastructure develops alongside the event.
The local climbing team and their collaborators regularly establish new routes and sectors, and in recent years, a large number of new sport and multi-pitch routes have been opened.
Special attention is given to materials suitable for the aggressive marine environment. Newer routes use titanium anchors and high-quality stainless steel systems adapted to the coastal area.
This is particularly important at locations such as Vela Stiniva and Pokrivenik, where the cliffs are directly exposed to salt and sea air.
The Climbing Marathon
One of the most recognisable parts of the festival is the Climbing Marathon at Vela Stiniva.
Unlike a traditional competition where only a few predetermined routes are climbed, the marathon focuses on achieving a greater number of ascents within a specific time frame.
Climbers of various experience levels participate, and the atmosphere is a blend of sporting challenge and camaraderie.
The announcement of winners and the award ceremony take place as part of the evening programme, and in some editions, the closing ceremony has been held at the Summer Cinema in Jelsa.
Workshops and renowned international climbers
Over the years, the Hvar Climbing Festival has hosted a number of well-known international climbers, trainers, and experts.
In addition to climbing together, lectures and workshops are organised on topics such as climbing techniques, finger strength development, mobility, training, safety, and proper equipping of new routes.
The programme changes each year, so the list of guests and workshops should be checked after the specific edition's programme is announced.
This expert component adds extra value to the festival – participants come not only to climb but also to learn from those with extensive experience on natural rock.
Slacklining, swimming, and socialising
The festival is not limited to just sport climbing.
The programme of individual editions has included slackline workshops, free climbing, multi-pitch routes, deep water soloing, swimming, lectures, and evening social events.
Activities are not exactly the same each year, but the combination of sport and relaxed seaside living is one of the main reasons the festival has a different atmosphere from a traditional climbing competition.
Is the festival only for experienced climbers?
No.
The festival attracts climbers of very different experience levels. Hvar has easy, moderately challenging, and very difficult routes, so both recreational climbers and elite athletes can find suitable climbing opportunities.
However, beginners should not attempt sport climbing independently without the appropriate knowledge and equipment.
If a person lacks experience in belaying, tying knots, and using climbing gear, they should participate with a qualified guide, instructor, or experienced climber.
Equipment
For independent sport climbing, one must have their own appropriate equipment.
Depending on the sector, this includes a climbing harness, rope, belay device, quickdraws, climbing shoes, helmet, and other standard gear.
At certain climbing sites, a rope length of up to approximately 70 metres is required, so it is advisable to check the information for the specific sector before heading out.
The latest information on routes, approaches, and required equipment is published in the Hvar Climbing guide and app.
Registration for the festival
The registration method is announced separately for each edition.
In previous years, registered participants have been able to benefit from discounts on the ferry Split – Stari Grad and more affordable accommodation at Campsite Mina.
Such benefits are not guaranteed every year, so it is essential to check the current announcement from the organisers.
It is not advisable to rely on the registration form from a previous edition, as the link, deadlines, and conditions may change.
Transport to the climbing sites
Vela Stiniva, Pokrivenik, and Lučišća are not within walking distance from Jelsa.
Participants with their own cars can travel to the climbing sites independently, but in some editions of the festival, shared transport has been organised.
This is particularly helpful in Vela Stiniva and Pokrivenik, where parking spaces are limited.
Current information about shuttle transport should be checked alongside the programme for the specific edition.
How to get to Hvar?
For participants coming from Split, the most practical ferry route is Split – Stari Grad.
From the Stari Grad ferry port, the road continues across the island to Jelsa.
An alternative option for arriving from the south of Croatia and the Makarska Riviera is the ferry route Drvenik – Sućuraj, after which one drives to Jelsa via the eastern part of Hvar.
For the climbing sites Vela Stiniva and Pokrivenik, arriving via Sućuraj can be practical as they are located on the eastern part of the island, but the festival base remains in Jelsa.
Hvar is interesting for climbers for most of the year
The festival lasts only a few days, but climbing on Hvar is not limited to the festival dates.
The island has several hundred established climbing routes, and many sectors can be used for a large part of the year.
In winter and spring, one can choose sunnier cliffs, while in summer, shaded sectors are sought. At certain locations, routes are located right by the sea, allowing for a combination of climbing and swimming.
Thus, the festival often serves as an initial encounter with Hvar's climbing areas, after which climbers return outside the event dates.
Why is it worth following the Hvar Climbing Festival?
The festival is one of the few events on Hvar that expands the island's tourist image far beyond the traditional summer holiday.
Jelsa serves as a base and meeting point, while participants explore completely different parts of Hvar during the day – from the high cliffs of Vela Stiniva and Pokrivenik to the challenging sectors in Lučišća.
In just a few days, it is possible to combine sport climbing, the sea, beaches, international company, and the nightlife of Jelsa.
For this reason, the Hvar Climbing Festival is not only interesting as a sporting competition but also as a true island outdoor festival.
Where to follow the news?
As the date, programme, guests, registration, transport, and newly opened sectors change from year to year, information should be checked before each edition.
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/hvar_climbing/
The current programme is also published through the Hvar Climbing channel and the Tourist Board of the Municipality of Jelsa.
Useful information
- Name: Hvar Climbing Festival
- Location on Holiday Link: Jelsa
- Type of event: international sport climbing and outdoor activities festival
- First edition: 2023
- Timing: usually late May or June
- Duration: most often four days
- Festival base: Campsite Mina, Jelsa
- Distance from Campsite Mina to the centre of Jelsa: about 500 m
- Main climbing sites: Vela Stiniva, Pokrivenik, and Lučišća
- Programme: sport climbing, climbing marathon, free climbing, presentations of new sectors, workshops, lectures, slacklining, and evening social events
- Participants: recreational climbers, experienced climbers, and international guests
- Beginners: should participate under appropriate professional supervision
- Equipment: for independent climbing, personal climbing gear is required
- Registration: the method of registration and deadlines are announced separately for each edition
- Transport: in some editions, shuttle transport is organised between Jelsa and the climbing sites
- Accommodation: Campsite Mina traditionally serves as the festival base, but participants can also use other accommodation in Jelsa and the surrounding area
- Instagram for updates: https://www.instagram.com/hvar_climbing/
- Important: the exact date and programme change every year and should be checked before arrival
- Special feature: the festival connects Jelsa with some of Hvar's best climbing sites, with Vela Stiniva and Pokrivenik located right by the sea
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