Vrboska – The Little Venice of Hvar, a Place of Bridges, Fishing Tradition, and Hidden Coves

Vrboska is one of those places on Hvar that does not reveal itself all at once. It is located on the northern side of the island, deep in a long and narrow bay that transforms into a canal between old stone houses as it approaches the center of the town. Small bridges cross the water, boats are moored almost at the doorsteps, and in the middle of the bay lies the tiny islet of Škojić. This unusual layout has earned Vrboska the nickname Little Venice.

However, Vrboska is not interesting only because of its bridges. Behind today's peaceful summer resort lies a strong fishing history, one of the most unusual fortified churches in Dalmatia, an exceptionally valuable collection of sacred art, the first Fishing Museum of its kind on the Adriatic, a protected harbor, a good gastronomic scene, and a range of natural beaches that stretch around the green peninsula of Glavica.

Vrboska is small enough that almost everything in the center can be explored on foot, yet it offers enough content for several days of relaxation without the need to constantly travel to other places on Hvar.

A Small Town at the End of a Long Bay

Vrboska developed at the end of a very deep and winding sea cove. When approaching from the sea, one sails for a long time between green shores before the first houses and marina appear, and then the bay gradually narrows towards the historical center.

The town is traditionally divided into two parts. Pjaca, on the eastern side, has more Renaissance and Baroque houses, while on the western side lies Podva, with churches, narrow streets, and Gothic and Renaissance houses.

Today, this division is of little importance to tourists as it takes only a few minutes to cross from one side to the other. The bridges connecting the two shores have become the most recognizable motif of Vrboska.

According to the 2021 Census, Vrboska has about 550 inhabitants, so despite the summer liveliness, it remains a small place where the same streets, terraces, and people are quickly recognized.

Why is Vrboska Called Little Venice?

The nickname did not arise because Vrboska tries to resemble Venice, but due to the very unusual relationship between the houses, the sea, and the bridges.

The sea enters deep into the town center and transforms into a narrow canal. Small stone houses stand on both sides, and picturesque bridges of various shapes and periods connect the shores.

In the middle of the bay is the small islet of Škojić, one of the visual symbols of Vrboska. In summer, the area around it and the bridges is occasionally used as a backdrop for cultural events.

The best way to get to know Vrboska is not to follow a predetermined route. It is enough to walk along one side of the waterfront, cross one of the bridges, lose yourself for a few minutes in the stone streets, and then return to the sea from the other side.

A Fishing Village Born from Sardines

Today's Vrboska began to develop more seriously in the 15th century, when residents from nearby Vrbanja and other places began to descend towards the sea.

The main reason was the sardine.

The development of fishing techniques allowed for more intensive fishing of small blue fish, making it important for the inland residents to have a safe harbor close to fishing areas. Thus, a fishing settlement gradually formed around the protected bay.

For centuries, fishing has determined the life of Vrboska. Boats, nets, fish processing, and trade brought enough wealth to the town to build quality stone houses, churches, and commission artworks from renowned masters.

This past has not disappeared. It is best understood in the Fishing Museum, but it is also visible today in the old wooden boats, restaurant menus, and events dedicated to traditional vessels.

Church-Fortress of St. Mary of Mercy – The Symbol of Vrboska

The most important historical building in Vrboska is located just a few minutes above the waterfront.

The Church-Fortress of St. Mary of Mercy looks more like a small fortress than a classic Dalmatian church. The reason is the Ottoman attack on Hvar in 1571, during which Vrboska was also affected.

The church was subsequently expanded and fortified in 1575 so that it could serve as a shelter and defensive point for the population in case of a new attack.

The massive stone walls, defensive elements, and elevated position make it completely different from other churches in the town. When open to visitors, it is worth exploring both the interior and the higher parts of the fortress.

If you have time in Vrboska for only one historical site, this is the one not to be missed.

Church of St. Lawrence – The Greatest Artistic Surprise

Just a few minutes away is the parish Church of St. Lawrence, the patron saint of Vrboska.

From the outside, it is significantly calmer and simpler than the church-fortress, but the interior houses an exceptionally valuable collection of sacred art. Among the works, those associated with Paolo Veronese, Leandro Bassano, and other Renaissance and Baroque masters, as well as Croatian painters Celestino Medović and Marko Rašica, stand out.

Some valuable artworks from the church-fortress have also been relocated to the Church of St. Lawrence due to unfavorable preservation conditions.

Therefore, these two churches should be viewed together: St. Mary best illustrates the defensive history of Vrboska, while St. Lawrence showcases its artistic and religious heritage.

Church of St. Peter – Older than Vrboska Itself

At the entrance to the harbor is the small Church of St. Peter.

It is easy to overlook as it does not have monumental dimensions, but it is mentioned as early as 1331, at a time when today's Vrboska did not yet exist as a developed settlement.

The original statue of St. Peter, a work by Nikola Firentinac, is now kept in the Church of St. Lawrence, while a copy is located near the chapel.

A visit takes about ten minutes, but its age gives it a special place in the story of Vrboska.

Fishing Museum – A Story of Life Before Tourism

The Fishing Museum is one of the most important stops for anyone wanting to understand why Vrboska looks the way it does.

Opened in 1972, it was the first museum of its kind on the Adriatic coast. A large part of the items were donated by local fishing families.

The collection includes old nets, hooks, longlines, lights used in night fishing, tools for repairing nets and sails, items from fishing households, and exhibits related to sardine processing.

Particularly interesting is the story of the former sardine factory, which operated until 1972.

The museum is not large, but that is why it can be quietly explored in half an hour, after which one can view the old boats tied to the waterfront from a completely different perspective.

Walking Along the Waterfront, Bridges, and Old Town

The majority of Vrboska's charm is free and does not require any planning.

In the morning, it is best to stroll along the waterfront while the town is still not fully awake. The water in the canal is often almost calm at that time, reflecting the stone houses and bridges on its surface.

In the evening, the same route looks completely different. Restaurants and bars open, boats return to the harbor, and the bridges and Škojić become one of the main spots for evening walks.

Vrboska is not a place to rush from one attraction to another. It is best enjoyed when time is allowed for a few spontaneous stops by the sea.

Soline Beach – The Most Convenient for Families

If you are looking for a well-maintained beach where you can spend the whole day, Soline is the simplest choice.

Located about a kilometer from the center of Vrboska, at the beginning of the Glavica peninsula, the main part of the beach is pebbly, with easy access to the sea, and the pines behind the shore provide plenty of natural shade.

Nearby are a restaurant, beach bar, and seasonal water activities, and during the summer, there is also an aquapark. Showers and changing cabins are available.

Soline can be reached by car, bicycle, or on foot along the coast. There is a designated parking area next to the beach, which is charged during the tourist season.

For families with small children, this is the most practical beach in the Vrboska area.

Glavica – For Those Who Want to Find Their Own Piece of Coast

From Soline, the green peninsula Glavica continues, covered with pines and dotted with paths leading to natural swimming spots.

Here begins a completely different Vrboska.

Instead of one well-maintained beach, there are small coves, rocky shores, and flat stone slabs. Paklena, Kamenjara, Balun, and other swimming spots cater to guests who value peace and nature more than showers, bars, and sun loungers.

Balun is particularly known for its naturist tradition and large stone areas for sunbathing.

The peninsula is pleasant even off-season, when it becomes an area for walking and cycling through the pine forest.

Maslinica – A Natural Cove Without Tourist Infrastructure

On the other side of Vrboska lies Maslinica, completely different from Soline.

It is a natural, mostly rocky cove with pines around the shore and very clear water. In some places, there are more accessible entries into the water, but this is not a classic wide pebbly beach.

There are no beach bars, showers, or organized sun loungers, making it best for guests who seek tranquility and are willing to bring everything they need for a few hours by the sea.

Milna – A Small Cove in the Shade

Between Vrboska and Jelsa lies a small cove of Milna, approximately 1.5 kilometers from the center of Vrboska.

The shore is small and natural, with rocky and stony parts, while the pines provide plenty of shade. The water is clear, and the middle of the cove has lighter and finer bottom parts that give beautiful turquoise shades to the water.

Milna is not a beach with much infrastructure. It is best suited for quiet swimming and a few hours in the shade.

Zečevo Island – A Short Boat Trip from Vrboska

One of the best day trips from Vrboska is the islet of Zečevo, located about a kilometer in a straight line from the town.

It cannot be reached by car or on foot – access is by taxi boat or private vessel.

Zečevo has been known for decades as a naturist destination, although today it is not exclusively FKK. Most of the coast consists of natural rocks and stone slabs, and dense pines provide plenty of shade.

On the islet, there is also Lantina Beach, a well-maintained beach bar and restaurant with sun loungers and cabanas.

Those seeking a completely natural experience can move away from the bar and find a quieter part of the coast.

Swimming and Underwater Exploration

A large part of the coast around Vrboska is rocky, which has one significant advantage – the water remains very clear.

At Glavica, Maslinica, and Zečevo, the rocky bottom, crevices, and transitions to greater depths create good conditions for snorkeling.

For rockier beaches, water shoes are useful, especially due to sea urchins and uneven entries.

ACI Marina Vrboska – One of the Greatest Advantages for Nautical Enthusiasts

The long and sheltered bay has naturally made Vrboska an important nautical destination.

In the outer part of the harbor is the ACI Marina Vrboska, open year-round. It currently has 116 sea berths and 12 dry berths, and can accommodate vessels up to 35 meters for daily berthing.

The marina offers water and electricity at the berths, sanitary facilities, a laundry, Wi-Fi, a crane, and other amenities needed by sailors, while a fuel station is also located in the harbor area.

The greatest advantage is the location: the boat is safely moored in a protected bay, and the center of Vrboska and restaurants can be reached on foot.

Where to Eat in Vrboska?

The fishing history of the place is still best felt at the table.

Vrboska has a surprisingly large selection of restaurants for such a small place. In addition to fresh fish and seafood, one can find gregada, brujet, black risotto, octopus, lobster, shrimp, peka, and grilled meat.

Bonaca is interesting for more traditional fish dishes like gregada and brujet, Trica Gardelin and Luka Gardelin for fish and seafood by the sea, Lem for a wider selection of Dalmatian dishes and pizza, and Ruzmarin for fish platters, grill, and pizza.

GOTA combines pizza, fish, seafood, and a more relaxed dinner by the harbor, while Ranč Gabelić offers a completely different experience outside the waterfront, with peka and homemade products in a natural setting.

For wine and local delicacies, Pinjata and Konoba Nikola are particularly interesting, focusing on Hvar varieties, homemade wine, and brandies.

Coffee, Ice Cream, and Evening Drinks

Vrboska is not a place of vibrant nightlife like the town of Hvar, and that is one of the reasons many choose it.

The day can start with coffee or breakfast by the harbor at Gira, during a walk stop for ice cream at Gelaterija Lavanda, and in the evening sit down for wine, beer, or cocktails on one of the terraces by the waterfront.

Paparazzi is a simple café bar on Nova Riva, while for a later night out outside the center, there is Luda Koka, about 1.5 kilometers from the main waterfront.

Most evenings, however, take place by the sea – on restaurant terraces, bridges, and during a leisurely walk around the harbor.

Hvar Wines – Bogdanuša, Parč, and Plavac Mali

The surroundings of Vrboska immediately transition into the wine-growing region of central Hvar, making wine a natural part of the gastronomic offer.

It is worth tasting Bogdanuša, an indigenous white variety particularly associated with Hvar, as well as the much rarer Parč.

For red wine lovers, there is Plavac Mali, the most famous Dalmatian red variety.

The most interesting wines are best tasted in smaller cellars and wine bars, where they can be paired with cheese, prosciutto, salted fish, and olive oil.

Procession For the Cross

Vrboska is one of six places involved in the centuries-old procession For the Cross, which takes place on the night of Holy Thursday to Good Friday.

Simultaneously from Vrboska, Jelsa, Pitava, Vrisnik, Svirče, and Vrbanja, six processions set out that circle throughout the night and return to their starting points in the morning.

This tradition is inscribed on UNESCO's Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

For Vrboska, it is one of the most important events of the year and offers a completely different experience of the place compared to summer festivities.

Feast of St. Lawrence – The Most Important Summer Day in Vrboska

August 10 celebrates St. Lawrence, the patron saint of Vrboska.

The day includes a ceremonial religious program and procession, and in the evening, the town center transforms into a large summer festival with music, food, drinks, and socializing.

If you want to see Vrboska in its liveliest form, this is one of the best days to visit.

Days of St. Peter and Traditional Boats

At the end of June, Vrboska celebrates the Days of St. Peter.

Particularly interesting is the regatta of traditional wooden boats with Latin sails. Alongside it, there are boat blessings, balote, and evening gatherings.

This is one of the events that best showcases Vrboska's connection to fishing and the old maritime way of life.

The Race of Crazy Vessels

The Race of Crazy Vessels has a completely different character and takes place during the summer.

Teams create improvised and as creative vessels as possible, which then pass through the canal, under the bridges, and around Škojić.

Here, the most important thing is not who will be the fastest, but whose construction and performance will be the most imaginative.

For spectators, especially children, this is one of the most entertaining events in Vrboska.

Vrboska for Families with Children

Vrboska is a very good choice for a family vacation.

The center is small, most daily amenities are accessible on foot, and traffic in the old town does not define the atmosphere of the place. Soline offers a practical family beach, while for quieter swimming, there are numerous coves to choose from.

Children find the bridges, boats, Škojić, Fishing Museum, and taxi boat to Zečevo interesting.

For families who want evening walks and restaurants without intense nightlife, Vrboska is more pleasant than many larger tourist centers.

Walking and Cycling

Vrboska is not only interesting in summer.

The Glavica peninsula is excellent for walking through the pine forest, and towards the interior of the island, cycling and walking routes open up towards Stari Grad Plain, a UNESCO-protected cultural landscape.

In spring and autumn, when temperatures are not high, cycling is one of the best ways to explore the area between Vrboska, Jelsa, Vrbanja, and Stari Grad.

How to Get to Vrboska?

Vrboska is located on the northern side of the central part of Hvar Island.

If you arrive in Hvar by car via ferry from Split, you will most often dock at the ferry port of Stari Grad, which is about 8 kilometers from Vrboska.

Jelsa is about 5 kilometers away and can be quickly reached by car, bicycle, or a longer walk along the coast.

From the main island road D116, a local road branches off towards Vrboska, which ends in the town after a few kilometers.

Vrboska can also be reached by bus or taxi from other parts of Hvar.

Parking in Vrboska

A car is not necessary for exploring the center.

The most practical option is to leave the vehicle in one of the public parking areas in the wider center and explore the rest of the town on foot. In July and August, the spots closest to the waterfront can fill up quickly, especially in the evening and during larger events.

The old town, churches, Fishing Museum, bridges, Škojić, restaurants, and bars are located in a relatively small area.

For Soline, there is a separate parking area next to the beach, which is charged during the tourist season.

When is the Best Time to Visit Vrboska?

June is excellent if you want warm water, long days, and fewer crowds than in the peak season. At the end of the month, the Days of St. Peter are also held.

July and August bring the most activities, the warmest water, and the liveliest evenings. During this time, restaurants and beaches are the most visited, and the Feast of St. Lawrence and the Race of Crazy Vessels take place.

September may be the best month for guests who prioritize swimming and tranquility over events. The water is still warm, and the number of visitors gradually decreases.

Spring and autumn are ideal for walking, cycling, Stari Grad Plain, and exploring the area without summer heat.

How Many Days to Stay in Vrboska?

One day is sufficient for just exploring the old town.

However, Vrboska makes more sense when it is not used solely as a day trip stop. With one day for the town, one for the beaches of Glavica, and one for Zečevo or exploring the rest of Hvar, it is easy to arrange several days of relaxation without repeating the same program.

For a week, Vrboska is a good base for exploring Jelsa, Stari Grad Plain, Stari Grad, and other parts of central Hvar.

Why Choose Vrboska?

Vrboska does not have the monumental squares of the town of Hvar or the busy waterfronts of larger island towns.

Its advantage lies precisely in its different rhythm.

In the morning, one can enjoy coffee by an almost calm canal, a few minutes later explore Renaissance art or fishing nets over a century old, spend the afternoon swimming in a cove under the pines, and in the evening cross a stone bridge for dinner by the sea.

Vrboska is well-equipped enough for guests to have everything they need, yet still small enough that the sea, fishing boats, stone houses, and pine forests remain more important than the tourist infrastructure itself.

Useful Information

• Location: northern coast of Hvar Island, Municipality of Jelsa
• Population: about 550 according to the 2021 Census
• Nickname: Little Venice, due to the canal and small bridges
• Historical Development: fishing settlement developed in the 15th century
• Parts of Old Vrboska: Pjaca and Podva
• Most Important Landmark: Church-Fortress of St. Mary of Mercy
• Other Attractions: Church of St. Lawrence, Church of St. Peter, and Fishing Museum
• Most Recognizable Visual Symbols: canal, stone bridges, and islet Škojić
• Most Practical Beach for Families: Soline
• Natural Beaches: Maslinica, Milna, Paklena, Kamenjara, Balun, and other coves around Vrboska
• Naturism: present at Balun and traditionally on the islet of Zečevo
• Boat Excursion: Zečevo, accessible by taxi boat or private vessel
• Naútics: ACI Marina Vrboska is open year-round
• ACI Marina: 116 sea berths and 12 dry berths; daily acceptance of vessels up to 35 m
• Gastronomy: fresh fish, gregada, brujet, black risotto, octopus, peka, and Hvar wines
• Main Wines Worth Tasting: Bogdanuša, Parč, and Plavac Mali
• Most Important Events: For the Cross, Feast of St. Lawrence, Days of St. Peter, and Race of Crazy Vessels
• Distance from Jelsa: about 5 km
• Distance from the Ferry Port of Stari Grad: about 8 km
• Parking: public parking is available in the wider center; the old town is best explored on foot
• Best Time for Swimming: from June to September
• Best Time for Walking and Cycling: spring, early summer, and autumn