St. Lawrence Church, Vrboska – the Parish Church with the Most Valuable Collection of Art on Hvar Island
St. Lawrence Church is one of the most significant landmarks in Vrboska. From the outside, it appears quite simple and unobtrusive, but behind its stone façade lies an exceptionally rich collection of paintings and sacred art, making this parish church one of the most valuable places for art enthusiasts on the entire island of Hvar.
It is located in the old part of Vrboska, just a few minutes' walk from the fortress church of St. Mary of Mercy. These two churches are best visited together: St. Mary impresses with its fortification architecture, while St. Lawrence holds the greatest surprise within its interior.
A 15th-Century Church
St. Lawrence Church dates back to the 15th century, a period when Vrboska began to develop as a fishing and maritime settlement.
Its history has not been peaceful. The church was damaged in a fire in 1512 during the Hvar Uprising and was again burned in 1571 during an Ottoman attack that severely affected Vrboska and much of the island.
The current appearance is the result of later restorations, and in the 17th century, the church was remodelled in the Baroque style, which it has largely retained to this day.
Five Altars and an Exceptionally Rich Interior
The church has five altars, but what sets it apart from most smaller island parish churches is the quantity and quality of the artworks it houses.
For centuries, Vrboska has been a strong fishing and trading hub. Thanks to the income from fishing and trade, local brotherhoods and residents were able to commission valuable works from renowned artists.
Thus, the modest stone exterior of the church conceals an interior that many visitors do not expect.
The Polyptych of St. Lawrence on the Main Altar
The most important artwork is located on the main altar.
The central depiction is dedicated to St. Lawrence with the Virgin Mary, accompanied by St. John the Baptist and St. Nicholas. Other scenes illustrate events from the life and martyrdom of St. Lawrence.
The polyptych is associated with the great Venetian Renaissance painter Paolo Veronese. This work is one of the main reasons why St. Lawrence Church stands out in the sacred heritage of Hvar.
Works by Great Masters
The main altar is just the beginning.
On the side altars and walls, one can find works by artists representing several centuries of European and Croatian sacred art.
Notable works are linked to names such as Jacopo da Ponte Bassano, Antonio Sciuri, Stefano Celesti, and Giuseppe Alabardi, as well as important Croatian painters from the early 20th century Celestin Medović and Marko Rašica.
The ceilings also feature 18th-century paintings depicting God the Father, the Son, and the Coronation of Mary.
For all these reasons, the church cannot be appreciated merely from the outside – its true value is revealed only upon entering.
Artworks from the Fortress Church of St. Mary
Today, St. Lawrence Church also houses part of the artistic treasure that was once located in the nearby fortress church of St. Mary of Mercy.
Due to moisture issues in the fortress, valuable works were relocated to the safer environment of the parish church.
Here, there is also a statue of St. Peter that originally belonged to the chapel of St. Peter, associated with the great Renaissance sculptor Nikola Firentinac.
Thus, St. Lawrence now functions almost as a small gallery of sacred art in Vrboska.
St. Lawrence – the Patron of Vrboska
St. Lawrence is the patron saint of Vrboska, and his feast day is celebrated on 10th August.
On this day, the place comes alive, with a religious celebration accompanied by a procession and a traditional summer festival. For visitors in Vrboska at the beginning of August, this is one of the best times to experience local traditions.
The church is not only a historical landmark but also remains a vibrant centre of the parish.
St. Lawrence Church and the Za križen Procession
St. Lawrence Church plays an important role in the Za križen procession, a centuries-old Hvar tradition inscribed on UNESCO's Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
On the night of Maundy Thursday to Good Friday, six processions set off simultaneously from Vrboska, Jelsa, Pitava, Vrisnik, Svirče, and Vrbanja.
The Vrboska procession begins at its parish church of St. Lawrence, and after a night walk of approximately 25 kilometres, the cross-bearers and procession return to the same church by morning.
This makes St. Lawrence one of the most important places of living religious tradition in Vrboska.
Can the church be visited inside?
Yes, St. Lawrence Church can be visited inside.
During the tourist season, there are specific times when it is open to visitors, but it is not a site that is continuously open from morning until evening.
Outside of visiting hours, the church may be locked, except during masses and other church events.
If you wish to see the art collection, it is advisable to plan your visit during the times when the interior is open.
Location in Vrboska
The church is situated in the historic part of the town, very close to the waterfront and main attractions.
It takes only a few minutes to walk from the fortress church of St. Mary of Mercy to St. Lawrence, so there is no reason to visit these two locations separately.
Nearby are also the Fishing Museum, bridges over the narrow sea channel, and the old stone core of Vrboska.
Parking
The church does not have its own parking for visitors.
It is best to leave your car in a public parking area in the wider centre of Vrboska and continue on foot. The old town is small, so almost all main attractions can be visited without needing to use the car again.
During July and August, finding a free spot in the very centre can be more challenging, especially in the evenings.
Why is it worth entering?
St. Lawrence Church is one of those landmarks that can easily be underestimated if viewed only from the outside.
The simple stone building conceals an exceptionally rich artistic collection, from Renaissance and Baroque masters to Croatian painters of the early 20th century.
If the fortress church of St. Mary represents the military and architectural history of Vrboska, St. Lawrence best illustrates how the once small fishing village was connected to the culture and art of a much broader Mediterranean area.
Useful Information
- Type of landmark: parish church and collection of sacred art
- Period of origin: 15th century
- Current style: predominantly Baroque appearance after the 17th-century renovation
- Historical damages: the church was burned in 1512 and again in 1571
- Number of altars: five
- Most important work: the polyptych of St. Lawrence on the main altar, associated with Paolo Veronese
- Other artists: Jacopo da Ponte Bassano, Antonio Sciuri, Stefano Celesti, Giuseppe Alabardi, Celestin Medović, Marko Rašica, and others
- Additional collection: the church houses part of the artworks relocated from the fortress church of St. Mary due to moisture
- Patron of Vrboska: St. Lawrence
- Feast of St. Lawrence: 10th August
- Za križen procession: the procession from Vrboska starts at the parish church of St. Lawrence and returns to it after the night walk
- Interior visits: possible when the church is open to visitors; not open continuously throughout the day
- Distance from the fortress church of St. Mary: a few minutes' walk
- Parking: no private parking; use public parking in the wider centre of Vrboska
- Time for a visit: around 20 to 30 minutes
- Best for: art lovers, history enthusiasts, sacred heritage, and local traditions
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