Zastražišće on Hvar – stone hamlets, hidden coves and the wild northern coast

Zastražišće offers a different perspective of Hvar. It lacks a large promenade, hotel zone, or an evening stroll lined with cafés. The old village is situated inland, along the main road between Jelsa and eastern Hvar, while its most beautiful coves are hidden a few kilometres down on the northern coast.

This division is the most distinctive feature of Zastražišće. Up above are the old stone hamlets, churches, olive groves, dry stone walls, and fields of aromatic herbs. Below are Vela Stiniva, Dubac, Kruševa, Pokrivenik, and other small coves, surrounded by steep cliffs and exceptionally clear waters.

This is not a place for guests who need everything within a five-minute walk. Zastražišće is for those who enjoy driving to another cove, finding a small pebble beach, spending a few hours by the sea, and returning to the tranquillity of the island's interior in the evening.

The old village above the sea

Zastražišće is located in the eastern part of Hvar, between Poljica and Gdinj. It is approximately 20 kilometres from Jelsa, and the state road D116 runs through the village, connecting the western and eastern parts of the island.

The settlement is not compact. It consists of old residential units and hamlets, including Donje Polje, Mala Banda, Postranje, and Grudac, along with smaller estates and groups of stone houses that have developed around family farms.

As a result, simply passing through Zastražišće by car is not sufficient. Only when you turn off the main road into the old houses do you see the narrow alleys, stone courtyards, cisterns, chapels, and agricultural buildings that preserve the appearance of the former rural Hvar.

Why is it called Zastražišće?

The name of the place is linked to its strategic position.

Above the area of Zastražišće rises Vela Glava, at 316 metres, from which there is a good view of the Hvar Channel towards Brač and the Biokovo coast. In the past, a watch was kept here to oversee access to this part of the island.

Interestingly, Vela Glava still serves a similar function today – the position is used for monitoring and early detection of fires.

This historical role also explains the character of the place: Zastražišće did not develop by the sea, but in a safer position inland, while the coastal coves have served fishermen, labourers, and landowners for centuries.

The coves of Zastražišće – the main reason for summer visits

The most tourist-attractive part of Zastražišće is located on the northern coast of Hvar.

From west to east, the coves include Vela Stiniva, Stanjimir, Sinjava, Dubac, Kjušna, Kruševa, and Pokrivenik, along with a number of smaller rocky indentations and swimming spots.

They are not all the same. Vela Stiniva has more houses, a restaurant, a café, and a more developed access. Dubac and Kruševa are significantly quieter and require more caution when arriving by car. Pokrivenik is a large, indented cove with several branches, high cliffs, and tourist facilities scattered along different parts of the shore.

This is important to know before booking accommodation. The address "Zastražišće" can refer to the old village along D116, but also to a house a few kilometres down in one of the coastal coves.

Vela Stiniva – the most recognisable cove of Zastražišće

If there is one cove that best represents Zastražišće, it is Vela Stiniva.

It is deeply carved between high limestone cliffs, and at its end, there is a pebble beach, a few stone and newer houses, a small harbour, and hospitality facilities.

The sea is exceptionally clear on calm days, and the high cliffs create an almost enclosed natural frame around the cove.

Vela Stiniva is particularly known as one of the best areas for sport climbing on Hvar. Climbing sectors are situated above the cove itself, allowing for a combination of several hours on the rock with swimming at the beach. Vela Stiniva is one of the main locations for the Hvar Climbing Festival.

Vela Stiniva beach – the most practical for a full day stay

Among the beaches of Zastražišće, Vela Stiniva is one of the easiest if you wish to spend the entire day by the sea.

An asphalted local road leads to the cove from Zastražišće. The road is narrow and winding, but you can drive almost to the shore.

At the main pebble beach, the sea is easily accessible, and just a few steps from the beach are Šer Zane, a restaurant and pizzeria, and Buffet Kod Mate, a simple seasonal café for coffee, juices, beer, and other drinks.

Due to the combination of beach, food, drinks, and relatively easy access, Vela Stiniva is more practical than the more remote coves of Zastražišće.

Dubac – a small cove for a quieter day

East of Vela Stiniva lies Dubac, a significantly smaller and simpler cove.

At the end, there is a pebble beach surrounded by greenery and rocky slopes. The tourist infrastructure is very modest, so it is not a destination for beach bars or organised facilities, but rather for swimming and peace.

The main difference compared to Vela Stiniva is access. The final approach to Dubac is more challenging, with narrow and steep sections and an unpaved road.

If you are heading to Dubac, it is best to bring water, food, and everything needed for a beach stay with you.

Kruševa – an even quieter side of Zastražišće

Kruševa continues the same character as the more distant northern coves.

The main beach is a small pebble shore with rocky edges and very clear water. There is no organised beach service or reliable hospitality.

Access via the local road requires more caution than driving to Vela Stiniva or Pokrivenik. The final sections of the road can be narrow and unpaved, so before descending, consider the type of car and your own experience driving such roads.

Kruševa is a good choice for guests for whom a lack of facilities is not a problem, but rather an advantage.

Pokrivenik – a large cove beneath the cliffs

Pokrivenik is completely different from the small Dubac or Kruševa.

It is a large, deep, and indented cove surrounded by high limestone cliffs. Within it, there are several coastal units, so the name Pokrivenik on the map does not mean that all facilities are just a few steps apart.

In the deepest branch lies Veliki Pokrivenik beach, a pebble shore beneath high cliffs. In another part of the cove, there are accommodation and hospitality facilities, including Restaurant Preza.

The area of Pokrivenik can be reached by car via a local asphalted road, making it significantly more accessible than Dubac and Kruševa.

Here too, the surrounding cliffs are interesting to climbers, so Pokrivenik, along with Vela Stiniva, is one of the important climbing zones in this part of Hvar.

Little Blue Cave – a small sea cave between the coves

Between Kruševa and the area of Pokrivenik lies the Little Blue Cave, a small sea cave best accessed from the sea.

On a sunny and calm day, the light entering through the opening and the sea gives the interior blue and turquoise tones.

Unlike the famous Blue Cave on Biševo, there is no organised tourist system here, no entrance fee, or large boats. The Little Blue Cave is a small natural attraction best included in a boat trip, kayak, or SUP outing when sea conditions are safe.

It should not be planned as a separate full-day destination – it makes the most sense in combination with Kruševa or Pokrivenik.

What are the beaches of Zastražišće like?

Those expecting large, well-equipped beaches with sun loungers, water parks, and long promenades are in the wrong part of Hvar.

The beaches of Zastražišće are mostly small pebble shores, with smooth stones, rocky edges, and cliffs descending towards the sea.

In some places, the seabed further from the shore may be finer or sandy, but this does not make the beach sandy. When describing a particular cove, it is essential to distinguish between the beach surface and the seabed.

Natural shade also varies. In some places, pines and rocks provide good shelter during part of the day, while other beaches are mostly exposed to the sun. For the more remote coves, an umbrella and enough water are very practical.

The bora wind is important when choosing a beach

All the main coves of Zastražišće are located on the northern side of Hvar.

Therefore, before heading to the sea, it is worth checking the forecast, especially the direction and strength of the bora wind. In deep coves, the sea may appear very calm, but exposed parts of the coast and exits from the coves can be significantly choppier in stronger northern winds.

This is important for swimming, but even more so for kayaking, SUP, or smaller boat trips to the Little Blue Cave and neighbouring coves.

If the bora is blowing strongly, it is often more practical to choose a beach on the southern side of Hvar rather than descending several kilometres to the northern coast.

Sport climbing – the other side of Zastražišće

Zastražišće is not only interesting for bathers.

The cliffs of Vela Stiniva and Pokrivenik are among the most renowned climbing locations on Hvar. The unique aspect is that the sport routes are located close to the sea, creating a completely different atmosphere compared to classic continental climbing areas.

In Vela Stiniva, there are sectors of varying difficulty, including easier routes suitable for less experienced climbers and significantly more challenging ones.

The Hvar Climbing Festival uses Vela Stiniva and Pokrivenik as some of its main field locations, with its festival base in Jelsa.

Donje Polje – the old Hvar that is easily overlooked

One of the most interesting parts of the village itself is Donje Polje.

Here, old stone houses are grouped around family courtyards, among which Jerkov Dvor and Kuzmičićev Dvor stand out. The stone facades, entrances, courtyards, and former agricultural buildings illustrate what traditional residential units in eastern Hvar looked like.

In the same area is the Church of Our Lady of Snow, which dates back to the early 17th century.

This is not a curated ethnographic museum. The beauty lies in the fact that it is a genuine old part of the village that can be briefly walked through without tourist staging.

St. Nicholas Church – the main sacred centre of the place

On the hill above the old core stands the parish church of St. Nicholas, the protector of Zastražišće.

The church is mentioned as early as the 16th century and has been expanded and renovated several times over the following centuries. The current free-standing bell tower was completed in 1980.

Aside from the church itself, it is worth visiting for the location. The area around it offers views of the northern coast of Hvar, the Hvar Channel, the Makarska coast, and Biokovo.

The church is active, but there is no published regular schedule for tourist visits, so one should not assume that the interior will always be open.

Church of Our Lady of Snow

In Donje Polje, there is the Church of Our Lady of Snow, one of the characteristic small sacred buildings of Zastražišće.

It was erected in the early 17th century and has had several titles throughout history, while the current name has been used since its restoration and re-blessing in the 19th century.

Its value lies not in monumental architecture, but in its position among the old stone houses, illustrating how such chapels were connected to the daily lives of individual hamlets.

As with most small island churches, the interior is not regularly open as a tourist attraction.

St. Barbara – one of the oldest traces of Zastražišće

In the area of the village, there is also the Church of St. Barbara, one of the oldest sacred buildings on Hvar.

It dates back to the 12th or 13th century and is mentioned in writing in 1407. It houses statues of St. Barbara and St. Catherine from the early 17th century, and the church is listed in the Register of Cultural Goods of the Republic of Croatia.

For visitors interested in history, the combination of St. Barbara, St. Nicholas, and Our Lady of Snow provides a very good overview of the different periods of development in Zastražišće.

Olives, figs, and aromatic herbs

Zastražišće remains strongly connected to agriculture.

Surrounding the village are olive groves, vineyards, fig trees, lavender, immortelle, and other Mediterranean herbs. Several local family farms produce olive oil, essential oils, hydrolates, natural cosmetics, and other products from island herbs.

A particular point of interest is a very old olive tree in the area of Zastražišće, which local tradition and research attribute an age of over 2,500 years. Its trunk has a circumference of nearly six metres, and the tree still bears fruit.

Such aspects explain Zastražišće better than any large tourist attraction – here, the connection between the village, land, and way of life is still very clear.

Where to eat and drink?

The hospitality offerings are limited and mainly concentrated along the coast.

In Vela Stiniva, there is Šer Zane, a family restaurant and pizzeria by the shore, serving fish, Dalmatian dishes, and pizzas from a wood-fired oven.

A few steps away is Buffet Kod Mate, which, despite its name, is not a restaurant but a simple seasonal café for coffee, juices, beer, and other drinks.

In Pokrivenik, there is Restaurant Preza, while in the village itself and its surroundings, there are family farms where local production can be experienced.

The offerings are seasonal, so it is always sensible to check if a distant restaurant is open on the day you plan to visit.

Shopping and everyday needs

Unlike some completely small settlements in eastern Hvar, Zastražišće has a grocery store and post office.

This is practical if staying in the village itself or the surrounding coves, but the selection is naturally smaller than in Jelsa. If planning a longer stay in a secluded house by the sea, it is practical to do a larger shop in Jelsa before heading to your accommodation.

In the more remote coves, it is especially important to bring enough water, as Dubac, Kruševa, and similar places do not have a shop or reliable hospitality facilities by the beach.

Accommodation – check the exact cove

When booking accommodation in Zastražišće, the map is more important than the name of the address.

An apartment could be in the old village along D116, in Vela Stiniva right by the beach, or several kilometres further in Pokrivenik. These are completely different types of holidays.

If choosing accommodation by the sea, it is advisable to check before booking:

• the exact cove
• the distance from the beach
• the condition of the final part of the access road
• whether the property has its own parking
• if there is a restaurant or café in the cove
• how far the shop is
• how much natural shade there is on the beach

Especially in Dubac and Kruševa, access by car should be taken seriously, while Vela Stiniva and Pokrivenik are more practical for daily driving.

How to get to Zastražišće?

The village is very easily accessed via the state road D116, which runs through the middle of Hvar.

From Jelsa heading east, the drive is approximately 20 kilometres. From the direction of Sućuraj, Zastražišće is about 32 kilometres away.

The main road to the village is asphalted and presents no particular problems. The real difference occurs when descending towards the sea.

Better local roads lead to Vela Stiniva and Pokrivenik, while some approaches to Dubac and Kruševa are narrower, steeper, and partially unpaved.

For this reason, a car is highly recommended. Even if staying by the sea, the distances to the shop, visiting other coves, or heading to Jelsa are too great to be practically covered on foot every day.

Arrival by ferry – which side of Hvar is more practical?

There are two practical road options for arriving on Hvar.

If arriving by ferry from Split to Stari Grad, you continue through Jelsa towards Zastražišće.

If coming from the Makarska coast, the ferry Drvenik – Sućuraj can be very practical as it disembarks at the eastern end of the island, from where you drive west along road D116 to Zastražišće.

Which option is better depends on the starting point on the mainland, but guests arriving from the direction of Dubrovnik, Pelješac, or southern Dalmatia often save a considerable amount of island driving by coming via Sućuraj.

Zastražišće or Jelsa?

These two places offer almost opposite types of holidays.

Jelsa has a promenade, a wide selection of restaurants and cafés, shops, a waterfront, a port, and much more within walking distance.

Zastražišće offers tranquillity, old stone hamlets, small coves, and far fewer people.

If you wish to stroll through the centre in the evening, choose from several restaurants, and live without a car, Jelsa is more practical.

If the goal is to find a house or apartment close to a small cove and spend most of the holiday between the sea, cliffs, and nature, Zastražišće has a completely different value.

Who will enjoy Zastražišće the most?

It will suit couples, families, and individual travellers who do not require a large number of facilities immediately by their accommodation.

It is good for guests who enjoy:

peaceful pebble beaches, exploring different coves, sport climbing, swimming along rocky shores, small local restaurants, and life without large tourist crowds.

It will be less suitable for those prioritising nightlife, a wide selection of shops, urban beaches, organised activities for children, or daily movement without a car.

People do not come to Zastražišće for the quantity of facilities. They come because Hvar here is still quiet enough to hear the crickets, the bell from the old village, and the sea at the bottom of a small cove.

Useful information

• Location: eastern part of the island of Hvar, Municipality of Jelsa
• Distance from Jelsa: approximately 20 km
• Distance from Sućuraj: approximately 32 km
• Main road: D116 runs through the village
• Character of the settlement: dispersed old village made up of several hamlets and family estates
• Main coves: Vela Stiniva, Dubac, Kruševa, and Pokrivenik
• Smaller coves: Stanjimir, Sinjava, and Kjušna
• Beaches: mostly small pebble shores with rocky edges and clear water
• Most practical cove for facilities: Vela Stiniva
• Quieter and more remote coves: Dubac and Kruševa
• Large indented cove: Pokrivenik
• Natural attraction: Little Blue Cave between Kruševa and Pokrivenik
• Climbing: Vela Stiniva and Pokrivenik are among the more significant climbing locations on Hvar
• Wind: northern coves may be exposed to the bora; it is useful to check the forecast before heading to the sea
• Access to beaches: varies from cove to cove – from asphalted roads to narrower and unpaved final sections
• Parking: not the same in all coves; private spaces next to apartments are not public parking
• Shop: there is a grocery store in Zastražišće
• Post office: located in the village
• Restaurants and cafés: the highest concentration in summer is in Vela Stiniva and Pokrivenik
• Main attractions: St. Nicholas Church, Church of Our Lady of Snow, Church of St. Barbara, and old hamlets
• Local specialty: very old olive tree and a long tradition of olive growing, figs, and aromatic herbs
• Car: highly recommended for exploring the coves and everyday needs
• Most important before booking accommodation: check whether the property is in the village or in a specific cove and what the access is like