Sućuraj on Hvar – Beaches, Old Town and the Quieter Side of the Island

Sućuraj is a small fishing and tourist village located at the eastern tip of Hvar Island, on a peninsula that approaches the mainland so closely that the ferry ride from Drvenik takes only about half an hour. This position gives Sućuraj a character unlike any other place on Hvar: it is surrounded by the sea on three sides, with Biokovo rising towards the mainland, and within a few minutes, one can cross from the northern to the southern coast of the island.

This is not the Hvar of large hotels, clubs, and long city promenades. Sućuraj is small, easily explored on foot, and still functions as a true island village – with fishing boats in the harbor, stone houses of Gornja and Donja Banda, small restaurants along the waterfront, a winemaking tradition, and a ferry that serves as both a connection to the mainland and a part of daily life.

For a holiday, it is appealing precisely because so much is located in a very small area. In the morning, one can swim at Česminica, in the afternoon go to the sandy bottoms of Perna or Mlaske, take an evening stroll to the lighthouse, and dine by the harbor without needing to get back into a car.

Sućuraj is particularly suitable for guests seeking a quieter Hvar, easily accessible beaches, clear waters, and a local rhythm, while still wanting to stay connected to the mainland.

Where is Sućuraj Located?

Sućuraj lies on the narrowest and easternmost part of Hvar, opposite the Makarska Riviera.

It is separated from the mainland by only a few kilometers of sea, and a regular ferry line Drvenik – Sućuraj connects the village with the Makarska Riviera year-round. The journey itself takes about 30 minutes, making Sućuraj the easiest entry point to Hvar for travelers coming from southern Croatia, from the direction of Makarska, Dubrovnik, or via the highway through Zagvozd.

The village developed around a narrow natural harbor. To the north rises Gornja Banda, while on the peninsula to the south lies Donja Banda. Between them is the waterfront, the harbor, and a small center where most of the restaurants, cafes, and daily amenities are located.

According to the 2021 Census, the village of Sućuraj has 297 inhabitants. The entire Municipality of Sućuraj, which includes Bogomolje and Selca near Bogomolje, had 429 inhabitants.

These figures well describe the size of the place – this is a destination where one quickly begins to recognize the same streets, the same waterfront, and the same faces.

Sućuraj is a Different Hvar

When Hvar is mentioned, the first thoughts often go to the town of Hvar, the Pakleni Islands, Stari Grad, and Jelsa. Sućuraj represents almost the opposite side of the island experience.

It is far enough from the largest tourist centers to avoid their crowds, while at the same time, due to the ferry to Drvenik, it has an exceptionally practical connection to the mainland.

There is no need to plan a big excursion every day here. The sea is all around the village, several beaches can be reached on foot, and a whole series of coves can be accessed by car, scooter, bicycle, or boat.

A special advantage of eastern Hvar is the narrow width of the island. If the sea on one side is rougher, it is often possible to cross to the opposite coast in a few minutes and find more favorable swimming conditions.

This combination of the northern and southern coasts makes Sućuraj more interesting than it may initially appear on a map.

The Waterfront and Old Town – Sućuraj is Best Explored on Foot

For exploring the village itself, a car is almost unnecessary.

The waterfront is the natural center of Sućuraj. Here are the harbor, restaurants, cafes, fishing boats, and the daily life of the village. Behind the waterfront, narrow stone streets of Gornja and Donja Banda begin, nestled between old houses, courtyards, and small churches.

The most pleasant way to explore is to wander through the old alleys, head towards the church of St. George and the Franciscan Monastery, continue towards Fortica, return to the waterfront, and then extend towards the eastern end of the village and the lighthouse.

This entire walk can be done leisurely, with multiple stops for swimming, coffee, or dinner.

Sućuraj is not a place that impresses with a monumental square or palace. Its value lies in the whole – the small harbor, stone architecture, churches, remnants of the fortress, and the fact that historical buildings are still part of everyday life.

A History Older than Present-Day Sućuraj

The area of eastern Hvar has been inhabited for thousands of years.

The oldest archaeological find in the Sućuraj area is a stone axe from the transition from the Copper to the Bronze Age, dating back to the 3rd millennium BC. Illyrian graves, Hellenistic pottery, Roman remains, and artifacts from the ancient seabed have also been discovered.

Sućuraj is also associated with the legend of Illyrian Queen Teuta. In the Koščak–Oglavak area, there is an ancient wall traditionally called Teuta's Wall, and nearby is Velika gomila, linked to the Illyrian period. The story of Teuta's palaces should be viewed as local folklore, but archaeological finds clearly show that the area was inhabited long before the Middle Ages.

Life continued during the Roman period. A fragment of a Roman white mosaic was found in the area of today's Franciscan Monastery, and near Brigova, close to Mlaske, are the remains of a Roman villa rustica with a cistern.

Thus, Sućuraj is not just a small, newer ferry port – beneath the present settlement lies a long continuity of life at the far eastern end of Hvar.

How Did Sućuraj Get Its Name?

The name of the place is associated with Saint George.

The old church of St. George is mentioned in the Hvar Statute from 1331, and the old form of the name Sut Juraj gradually transformed into the present name Sućuraj.

Saint George remains the patron saint of the village, and his figure is still strongly present in local tradition.

The old medieval church was demolished due to deterioration at the end of the 19th century, and right next to its foundations, the present parish church of St. George was built in 1897.

The Franciscan Monastery – The Oldest Layer of Old Sućuraj

Immediately next to the church of St. George is the Franciscan Monastery, historically Augustinian.

This is one of the most important buildings in the village. Local tradition places its beginnings very early, while the inscription above the entrance reliably confirms that the Augustinian monastery was renewed in 1309, indicating that it existed before that date.

Today, Franciscans operate there, and within the parish complex, a fragment of a Roman mosaic found at this location is preserved.

The monastery, the foundations of the old church, and the present church of St. George together form one of the historically most interesting parts of Sućuraj.

Fortica – A Fortress at the Border of Three States

One of the most important landmarks of Sućuraj is the Fortress Fortica, built in 1613.

Its construction was not coincidental. During the Venetian-Ottoman conflicts, Sućuraj was located almost at the tripoint of three political worlds: Hvar belonged to the Venetian Republic, the Makarska Riviera across the sea was under the Ottoman Empire, and Pelješac belonged to the Dubrovnik Republic.

Sućuraj was attacked and burned multiple times, so Fortica was erected to defend the village and the harbor. It had cannons and a permanent military garrison.

The fortress suffered severe damage during the bombing in 1944, when the tower, interior, and a large part of the walls were destroyed. Today, remnants are preserved, so Fortica is not a classic fully restored fortress but a historical site that holds much more significance when its story is known.

The Church of St. Anthony – A Trace of Settlers from the Mainland

In Donja Banda, there is the Church of St. Anthony, built in 1663.

It was erected by settlers who fled from the mainland before the Ottomans during the 16th and 17th centuries, led by Franciscans. There was also a small monastery next to the church, now converted into a residential house.

The church houses the oldest known painting in Sućuraj, two statues of St. Anthony, and a small archaeological collection with amphorae and an anchor related to an ancient shipwreck.

St. Anthony on June 13 still holds an important place in the religious and social life of Sućuraj.

The Lighthouse – The Lantern at the Very End of Hvar

At the far eastern point is the Sućuraj Lighthouse, locally known as Lanterna.

The current lighthouse dates back to the 19th century and is still operational. It is located less than a kilometer from the center, making it easily accessible on foot.

This is one of the best short walks in the village. As one approaches the cape, the houses are left behind, and the view opens up towards the Makarska Riviera and Biokovo.

Around the lighthouse, the coast is rocky and also used for swimming. There is no classic arranged beach, but flat rocks and open water suit those who prefer natural entry points into the sea.

Česminica Beach – The Most Practical Beach in the Village

For families and guests who do not wish to use a car, the simplest choice is Česminica.

It is located on the southern side of Sućuraj, just a few hundred meters from the center. The shore is a combination of pebbles, stones, and arranged areas, while one of its greatest advantages is the shallow sandy seabed.

There is natural shade, a shower, and catering facilities, making Česminica practical for daily swimming.

For small children, this is one of the easiest beaches around the village: it is close to apartments, the entry into the sea is not demanding, and there is no need to carry all the equipment for a full day in a wild cove.

Bilina – Swimming on the Northern Side

On the northern coast, about half a kilometer from the center, lies Bilina.

This is a pebbly-stony beach with a view towards the Makarska Riviera and Biokovo. It can be reached on foot through the old streets of Sućuraj or by the road that continues towards Mlaske.

Bilina is particularly useful as an alternative when conditions on the southern side are not the best.

Although it does not have a separately marked Google Maps pin like some other beaches, it is a traditional local bathing spot and one of the main beaches officially associated with Sućuraj.

Perna – Shallow Sandy Sea Outside the Village

One of the most interesting coves in the vicinity is Perna, approximately 2.5 kilometers west of Sućuraj on the southern side of the island.

It is important to distinguish between the shore and the seabed. Perna is not a classic large sandy beach – the shore is mostly natural and rocky – but the sea features a wide shallow sandy bottom that gives the water a bright turquoise color.

Behind the shore, a pine forest grows, and the cove does not have a large tourist infrastructure.

Access to Perna is via a dirt road whose condition may vary, so caution is advised when driving a lower vehicle. It can also be reached by boat.

For small children, the sea is very interesting due to the shallows, but access is not as practical as at Česminica or Mlaske.

Mlaska – Shallow Water, Pines, and a Nudist Area

On the northern side, about four kilometers from Sućuraj, lies Mlaska.

It is accessible via an asphalt road, making it one of the most accessible larger coves outside the village.

The uniqueness of Mlaske is its large area of very shallow sandy bottom, making it one of the best options for families with small children. There are pines and natural shade along the shore, and within the cove, there is a campsite with a restaurant, shop, sanitary facilities, and a smaller dock.

The cove is traditionally divided into Velika Mlaska, intended for classic swimming, and Mala Mlaska, which has a naturist or nudist character.

If a full-day stay with more amenities than in wild coves is sought, Mlaska is one of the best choices around Sućuraj.

Valica and Blace – Between the Center and the Wild Coast

On the southern side, between Česminica and Perna, are Valica and Blace.

These are smaller bathing spots with a combination of pebbles, stones, and more arranged parts of the shore. They are closer to the village and more easily accessible than the coves further west, making them suitable for guests who want something quieter than the main beach but without a serious excursion.

Blace is also an important transition point on the southern coast. After them, there is no simple path that continuously follows the sea, making access to the next coves considerably more demanding.

Prapatna, Židigova, and Rasovatica – For Those Seeking Peace

West of Perna begins a much wilder part of the southern coast.

Prapatna is a natural pebbly-stony cove without amenities, easiest to reach by boat or through more demanding hiking.

Židigova is also a small natural cove with rocky and pebbly parts, without classic road access to the beach.

Rasovatica, which you may hear locally as Rasovaca, is one of the few more distant southern coves that can be approached via a separate dirt road. The cove also has a mariculture zone, so it is not completely wild in a visual sense like Židigova.

These beaches are not the best choice for guests who want a shower, restaurant, and easy access with strollers. Their value lies in the peace, small number of people, and natural shore.

Path Punte – Swimming Towards the Lighthouse

At the eastern end of the village is a rocky stretch of coast often referred to as Sućuraj Beach / Path Punte.

There is no large pebbly shore here. Swimming is done from natural rocks and stone slabs, the sea quickly becomes deeper, and there is little shade and amenities.

The advantage is the proximity to the center and the lighthouse.

This is a good choice for a short morning or evening swim, especially for adults and good swimmers who enjoy rocky shores and do not need an arranged beach.

More than 20 Kilometers of Coast Around the Village

One of the greatest advantages of Sućuraj is not one "best" beach but the variety of coast in a very small area.

The northern and southern sides together offer more than 20 kilometers of coastline, from more arranged bathing spots in the village to completely natural coves.

Further from the center are Brigove, Didina, Mrtinovik, Carevića Vala, and a whole series of very small coves best explored by boat.

For this reason, Sućuraj works well for guests who do not want to spend all seven days at the same beach.

Walking, Biking, and Light Exploration of Eastern Hvar

There are more than 30 kilometers of old paths and trails around Sućuraj through olive groves, forests, and former agricultural areas.

Some of these paths were created as access to vineyards and olive groves, and today they are used by walkers, cyclists, and recreationalists.

A great option for a light walk without special equipment is the loop to the lighthouse. The marked route over the cape Sućuraj is about 2.3 kilometers long and can be completed in less than an hour.

For longer tours, one should consider the summer heat. The landscape is open, natural shade is not available everywhere, and it is much more pleasant to walk early in the morning or in the evening.

The Sea is Still Part of Sućuraj's Real Life

The fishing tradition here is not just a tourist story.

Sućuraj has been one of the more active fishing villages on Hvar for decades, and the local fleet includes trawlers that fish in the central and southern Adriatic.

Fishing boats are therefore not just a backdrop for photographing the waterfront. The harbor still serves a practical role, and fishing, along with tourism, olive growing, and winemaking, is one of the features of the village.

This is best felt early in the morning or outside the main evening rush, when the waterfront is much more a local harbor than a tourist promenade.

Where to Eat in Sućuraj?

Most restaurants are concentrated around the waterfront and old town, so dinner can be enjoyed without a car.

Konoba Mizarola is a good choice for grilled fish, gregada, brodet, octopus, squid, and other classic seafood dishes.

Gusarska Luka is located by the sea and combines fish, seafood, grilled dishes, and simpler Mediterranean cuisine.

Restoran Fortica is one of the longer-established restaurants in the village, offering fish, squid, octopus, pasta, risottos, and grilled dishes.

Special mention goes to Buffet Pizzeria Guido / Podrum Vujnović, where pizza and simpler food are paired with a wine cellar featuring wines from the Vujnović family.

For ice cream, Mladost is in the center, while Caffe bar Noć i dan is one of the local spots for coffee or drinks.

The selection is not as vast as in the town of Hvar or Jelsa, but for the size of Sućuraj, the options are quite good and almost everything is accessible on foot.

Wine, Olive Oil, and Prč

Viticulture in the area of Sućuraj has a long tradition.

One of the most interesting local stories is related to the white variety Prč, an old Hvar variety that nearly disappeared from the vineyards of this area during the 20th century.

The Vujnović family began replanting it in the 1990s, using the remaining old vines found in the vineyards around Sućuraj.

Today, Prč is one of the more interesting local choices precisely because it is not a wine that is commonly found throughout Dalmatia.

Along with wine, olive oil is traditionally important, and the combination of fish, local wine, and olive oil best describes the simple cuisine of eastern Hvar.

Fishing Nights and TAM TAM Music Festival

In summer, Sućuraj is not a completely sleepy place.

Several times during July and August, Fishing Nights are held along the waterfront, featuring grilled fish, wine, music, and dancing. These are classic folk festivals that work best in a small village, where the entire event takes place in one space by the harbor.

A completely different audience is attracted by the TAM TAM Music Festival.

The festival has been held since 2012 and has grown out of the local underground and alternative scene. The main program takes place at the football field about a kilometer from the center and gathers alternative rock, indie, and electronic performers, along with a camp and various daytime programs.

TAM TAM is now one of the most recognizable contemporary events on eastern Hvar and changes the rhythm of the village for several days each year.

St. George and Local Traditions

April 23, the feast of St. George, marks the patron saint of Sućuraj and the Day of the Municipality.

Another important date is June 13, the feast of St. Anthony, associated with the church in Donja Banda.

Religious processions, local festivals, summer concerts, klapa performances, and occasional theater performances are part of the program that is significantly smaller and more local than the large tourist events in western Hvar.

Because of this, events here often function more as part of the life of the village than as programs created solely for visitors.

How to Get to Sućuraj?

For most guests arriving by car from the mainland, the most practical option is the ferry line Drvenik – Sućuraj.

The journey takes about 30 minutes and operates year-round, with more departures during the summer season.

This is a significant advantage for guests coming from the direction of Makarska, southern Dalmatia, or the A1 highway via Zagvozd.

Another option is to arrive by ferry to Stari Grad and then drive across the island. This makes sense if Sućuraj is combined with the rest of Hvar, but for a trip primarily aimed at Sućuraj, the approach from Drvenik is generally much simpler.

The road between Sućuraj and the central part of Hvar runs through a very elongated eastern part of the island, so the drive to Jelsa, Stari Grad, or the town of Hvar should not be considered a short transfer.

Is a Car Necessary for a Holiday in Sućuraj?

If planning to spend several days mainly in the village itself, a car is not necessary.

The waterfront, restaurants, shops, historical landmarks, Česminica, bathing spots around Punte, and the lighthouse are all accessible on foot.

A car, scooter, or bicycle becomes useful if one wishes to visit Mlaske, Perna, and more distant coves daily or head towards Bogomolje, Jelsa, and the rest of Hvar.

For a holiday focused on the sea, walking, dining, and a few days without major excursions, Sućuraj is one of those island places where a vehicle can be parked for much of the time.

Sućuraj with Children

For families with small children, Sućuraj has several concrete advantages.

The village is small, distances are short, and traffic outside the ferry route is not comparable to larger summer centers.

Česminica offers easy access and a shallow sandy bottom, while Mlaska is even more appealing for children who enjoy walking through shallow water.

Perna also has a very shallow sandy seabed, but access is less practical.

For parents wanting amenities right by the beach, the best choices are Česminica or Mlaska. For completely quiet and wild coves with small children, access, shade, and the amount of water needed should be carefully assessed.

Excursions from Sućuraj to the Rest of Hvar

Sućuraj can serve as a base for exploring the eastern half of the island.

To the west, one first passes through the area of Bogomolja, with small hamlets and numerous coves on both sides of Hvar. This part of the island is significantly less developed than the areas around Jelsa and Stari Grad.

Further west, Gdinj, Zastražišće, Humac, Jelsa, and other places can be connected.

However, due to the length of Hvar, it is not ideal to drive from Sućuraj to the town of Hvar and back every day. For guests prioritizing clubs, the Pakleni Islands, and the nightlife of Hvar town, it is more practical to stay in the western part of the island.

Sućuraj is a much better choice if the priorities are peace, swimming, natural coves, a fishing village, and eastern Hvar.

Boat Excursions and Surrounding Sea

Its location at the very eastern end of the island opens up possibilities towards the mainland.

From Sućuraj, various excursions and boat trips are organized to the Makarska Riviera, Pelješac, and other nearby areas, and smaller vessels can also be used to explore coves that are difficult to access by land.

For remote beaches on the southern coast, a boat is often the most pleasant way to arrive.

The sea around Sućuraj is also interesting for diving, fishing, and snorkeling, especially along the rocky parts of the coast outside the main bathing spots.

When to Visit Sućuraj?

July and August bring the most life, the largest selection of open catering facilities, and the most events, but also the highest traffic around the ferry.

For a quieter holiday, June and September are very good. The sea is pleasant, the days are still long, and the beaches and streets are significantly less crowded.

Spring and autumn suit guests who prioritize walking, cycling, and exploration over daily swimming.

Due to the mild climate, Sućuraj is inhabited year-round, but outside the tourist season, the availability of restaurants and other amenities is naturally reduced.

Who Will Best Suit Sućuraj?

Sućuraj is not a destination for everyone – and that is precisely its advantage.

It is excellent for couples and families seeking a quieter holiday by the sea, for guests who enjoy choosing a different cove every morning, for travelers who want to quickly cross from the mainland to Hvar by car, and for those who prefer sitting by a small fishing harbor rather than being in the midst of a large tourist center.

It also suits guests who want to completely slow down for a few days – swimming, coffee by the waterfront, a fish lunch, an afternoon nap, and a walk to the lighthouse.

If the goal is an intense nightlife, a wide range of shopping, or daily trips to the Pakleni Islands, one should look towards the western parts of Hvar.

If the goal is the sea, local life, and the feeling of being on an island, Sućuraj is one of the most interesting choices on eastern Hvar.

Useful Information

Island: Hvar

Location: the far eastern part of Hvar Island

Ferry: Drvenik – Sućuraj

Duration of the ferry ride: about 30 minutes

Main beaches: Česminica, Bilina, Mlaska, Perna, Valica, and Blace

Natural coves: Prapatna, Židigova, Rasovatica, Mrtinovik, and other coves of eastern Hvar

Main attractions: the church of St. George, Franciscan Monastery, church of St. Anthony, Fortress Fortica, and Sućuraj Lighthouse

Main events: TAM TAM Music Festival, Fishing Nights, feast of St. George, and summer cultural program

Cuisine: fresh fish, seafood, grilled dishes, olive oil, and local wines

Local wine specialty: Prč

Getting around the village: the center and main attractions are best explored on foot

Car: useful for Mlaske, Perna, distant coves, and exploring the rest of Hvar

Best for: a peaceful holiday, families, swimming, natural coves, fishing, walking, and guests arriving by ferry from Drvenik