St. Cosmas and Damian Church in Velo Grablje, Hvar – a historic parish church with 20th-century wall paintings
St. Cosmas and Damian Church is the most significant religious landmark in Velo Grablje, a historic village known for its lavender, stone houses, and traditional production of essential oils. It is located in the centre of the settlement, surrounded by old stone houses, and its architecture and valuable wall paintings testify to a time when Velo Grablje was one of the more vibrant and economically developed villages in the interior of Hvar Island.
The current church was built in 1886 on the site of an older place of worship from the 16th century. It is particularly renowned for its wall paintings created in 1913 and 1914, which contribute to its reputation as one of the most beautiful village churches in the Hvar diocese.
For visitors to Velo Grablje, the church is an essential part of the tour, and its history is closely linked to the lives of the residents, the village's former development, and the preservation of local customs.
History of St. Cosmas and Damian Church
On the site of the current church, there was an older church dating back to the 16th century, when Velo Grablje was already a developed rural settlement.
During the 19th century, the village economically advanced due to agriculture, viticulture, olive growing, and trade. The increase in population and development of the area created a need for a larger and more representative church.
The present building was erected in 1886 according to the design of engineer Marko Nonveiller from Split. The church was consecrated on 12 October 1890 by the Bishop of Hvar, Fulgencije Carev.
Its construction was a significant event for the residents of Velo Grablje. The church became a central gathering place for worship and the marking of important events in the life of the village community.
In the years following its construction, the interior was gradually furnished, and at the beginning of the 20th century, it received valuable wall paintings that are now one of its greatest features.
Architecture and location in the old village
St. Cosmas and Damian Church stands out among the stone houses of Velo Grablje due to its size and location.
It was built in accordance with the Dalmatian tradition of stone construction, featuring a simple, harmonious façade and a bell tower that rises above the surrounding roofs.
It is surrounded by old village streets and stone buildings, allowing visitors to see how the sacred architecture integrated into the former life of the area.
The view of the church from the surrounding parts of the village is particularly interesting, as its silhouette rises above the stone houses and surrounding greenery.
In contrast to the large churches in the town of Hvar, the atmosphere here is more intimate, and the building is strongly connected to the historical appearance of the village.
Wall paintings from 1913 and 1914
The greatest artistic feature of the church is the wall paintings created in 1913 and 1914.
It is precisely these paintings that historians and experts in local heritage have highlighted, considering the church one of the most beautiful village churches in the Hvar diocese.
The wall paintings give the interior a richer appearance and represent a valuable example of church decoration from the early 20th century.
They are particularly interesting to visitors who are keen on sacred art, the history of churches, and the cultural heritage of Dalmatian villages.
If the church is open, it is worth taking a few minutes to explore the interior. The external visit is also interesting, but it is the wall paintings that give the church its special artistic value.
St. Cosmas and Damian – Protectors of Velo Grablje
St. Cosmas and Damian are Christian martyrs who are traditionally venerated as physicians who helped the sick without charge.
Their feast day is celebrated on 26 September, and it is particularly significant in Velo Grablje as they are the protectors of the village.
The celebration of their feast day traditionally gathers residents, descendants of former families from Grablje, and visitors connected to the place.
Although Velo Grablje today has significantly fewer permanent residents than in the past, religious customs remain an important part of its identity.
The feast of St. Cosmas and Damian is an opportunity for the village to come alive again and to continue the tradition of gathering that has lasted for generations.
The church as part of Velo Grablje's history
Velo Grablje was once known for producing rosemary and later lavender oil. During the 19th and early 20th centuries, agriculture and the processing of aromatic herbs brought significant income to the village.
The current St. Cosmas and Damian Church dates back to this period.
Its size and condition remind us of a time when the village had many more inhabitants, a school, a cooperative, and a vibrant social life.
Later emigration during the 20th century changed the appearance and daily life of the village. Many houses remain empty, but the church has continued to be one of the most important gathering places.
Today, it is a valuable part of the historical ensemble of Velo Grablje, and visiting it allows for a better understanding of the past of this part of Hvar.
How to reach St. Cosmas and Damian Church?
The church is located in the historic centre of Velo Grablje, approximately ten kilometres from the town of Hvar.
From the town of Hvar, you can drive through the interior of the island, with the journey taking about 20 minutes, depending on the chosen route.
Upon arriving in Velo Grablje, it is best to continue on foot through the old village streets. The church is easily recognisable by its bell tower and its position among the stone houses.
The approach through the village includes narrow passages and cobbled areas, so comfortable footwear is recommended for exploring.
The church is suitable for a brief visit during a tour of the village, without the need for a specially organised trip.
Parking near the church
Velo Grablje is a historic settlement with narrow streets that are not suited for heavy traffic.
For those arriving by car, it is practical to use designated parking spaces along access roads and at widenings outside the narrowest part of the village, and then continue on foot to the church.
For most of the year, traffic is quieter, but during the Lavender Festival and the celebration of the village's patron, there may be more visitors.
Therefore, it is important to respect traffic signs and not leave vehicles in places that obstruct other cars or access to houses.
What else to visit in Velo Grablje?
A visit to the church can easily be combined with exploring other attractions in Velo Grablje.
The village is known for its old stone houses, narrow streets, dry stone walls, and agricultural terraces that testify to a former way of life.
The tradition of lavender is particularly interesting. Velo Grablje was one of the important centres for the production of essential oils, and this heritage is preserved today through local initiatives and the Lavender Festival, held in early summer.
Nearby is the Church of St. Vitus, a valuable older sacred building.
For those who appreciate traditional gastronomy, the village features Konoba Zbondini, while restaurants with views of the island landscape are located on the surrounding hills.
West of Velo Grablje lies Malo Grablje, an almost abandoned stone village, particularly interesting to visitors who wish to explore the history of Hvar's interior.
Why is it worth visiting St. Cosmas and Damian Church?
St. Cosmas and Damian Church is one of the most valuable individual landmarks in Velo Grablje.
Its history dates back to an older church from the 16th century, while the current building from 1886 reflects the economic development of the village during the 19th century.
Its special value is enhanced by the wall paintings from 1913 and 1914 and the strong connection to the village's protectors.
For guests who wish to experience Hvar beyond its famous beaches and urban attractions, this church offers an intriguing insight into the history, sacred art, and traditions of one of the island's most renowned lavender villages.
Useful information
- Location: Velo Grablje, interior of Hvar Island.
- Type of attraction: Historic parish church and sacred cultural heritage.
- Dedication: To St. Cosmas and St. Damian.
- Older church: An earlier church from the 16th century existed on the same site.
- Construction of the current church: 1886.
- Designer: Engineer Marko Nonveiller from Split.
- Consecration of the church: 12 October 1890, by Bishop Fulgencije Carev of Hvar.
- Artistic feature: Wall paintings from 1913 and 1914.
- Protectors of the village: St. Cosmas and St. Damian.
- Feast day of the protectors: 26 September.
- Access by car: Via road from the town of Hvar to Velo Grablje.
- Parking: At designated spots along access roads and outside the narrow village streets.
- Walking access: Easy from the centre of Velo Grablje.
- Visiting: The exterior is accessible during a village tour; interior access depends on the church's opening hours.
- Recommended footwear: Comfortable shoes due to the stone and uneven village paths.
- Best for: Lovers of history, sacred art, and traditional architecture.
- Nearby: Historic centre of Velo Grablje, Church of St. Vitus, lavender fields, and Malo Grablje.
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