Zaraće on Hvar – two beautiful coves, unusual rocky cliffs, and a peaceful place for a seaside retreat

Zaraće is a small, picturesque settlement on the southern coast of Hvar Island, known for its two beautiful pebble coves, high rocky cliffs, and exceptionally clear sea. It is located just a few kilometers east of the town of Hvar, but its appearance and atmosphere are completely different from the bustling island center. There are no large hotels or long promenades here, just a few houses by the sea, restaurants with views of the cove, and natural beaches surrounded by impressive cliffs.

The most distinctive feature of Zaraće is the long rocky cape that extends into the sea like a natural wall, separating the two coves. On its eastern side is Velo Zaraće, with a larger pebble beach and restaurants along the shore, while to the west is Malo Zaraće, known for its unusual rock formations and natural shade under the pines. Both coves have turquoise waters, but each has a completely different character.

Above the coast, at approximately 200 meters above sea level, lies the old village of Zaraće, with stone houses and remnants of past island life. This combination of the old settlement on the hill, small coves, and unusual rocky landscapes makes Zaraće one of the more interesting places for swimming and a quieter holiday on Hvar.

Velo Zaraće Beach – pebble beach and seaside restaurants

Velo Zaraće is located on the eastern side of the large rocky cape and is the most well-known beach in this settlement. The cove is surrounded by high cliffs, and along its pebble beach are several stone houses and hospitality establishments.

The beach is covered with pebbles and stones of various sizes, while larger rocks and stone surfaces are found along the edges. The easiest access to the sea is via the main beach. The water is exceptionally clear, and in some areas, the bottom drops off relatively quickly, so supervision is necessary when swimming with small children.

Velo Zaraće is particularly attractive due to the large rocky cape that protects part of the cove and gives it a distinctive appearance. Along its edges are interesting rocky underwater areas suitable for snorkeling.

There is not much natural shade on the beach, so it is advisable to bring an umbrella during the hottest summer days. A benefit is that there are restaurants right by the beach where one can have lunch or a drink without leaving the cove.

Due to the combination of pebble shoreline, restaurants, and the ability to drive almost to the water, Velo Zaraće is a practical choice for a full day of swimming.

Malo Zaraće Beach – unusual rocks and natural shade

Malo Zaraće is located on the western side of the rocky cape, just a few minutes from Velo Zaraće, but has a different appearance and a quieter atmosphere.

Its most distinctive feature is the large, unusually shaped limestone cliffs that extend along the coast and into the sea. In some places, they create natural stone platforms, while smaller pebble areas suitable for swimming are found between them.

Unlike Velo Zaraće, where the pebble beach is more pronounced, Malo Zaraće is particularly interesting for lovers of rocky shores. The water is very clear, and due to the large underwater rocks and rugged bottom, this is an excellent place for snorkeling.

One of the greatest advantages of Malo Zaraće is the natural shade. The pines along the coast and the surrounding cliffs provide shelter from the sun for part of the day, which is especially pleasant in July and August.

The beach is not large, so shaded spots fill up quickly. For visitors who prefer more natural swimming areas, the stone surfaces for sunbathing and the water cascading over the bright rocks make Malo Zaraće one of the most beautiful parts of the southern coast of Hvar.

Paščuka Beach (Veli Dolac) – a small cove west of Zaraće

Located slightly west of Malo Zaraće is Paščuka Beach, a small and secluded pebble cove that visitors also refer to as Veli Dolac.

Paščuka is significantly smaller than Velo and Malo Zaraće. It has a short beach of light pebbles, rocky edges, and pines that provide natural shade in some areas. The water is very clean, and entering the sea via the central pebble area is pleasant for swimming.

A unique feature of this cove is the restaurant Veli Dolac, located just above the beach, allowing for a combination of swimming and lunch on the terrace overlooking the sea.

Access to Paščuka is via a dirt road, which is more challenging than the paved road to Velo and Malo Zaraće. Therefore, it is advisable to check whether the road is suitable for your vehicle or to walk part of the way before arriving.

Paščuka is an interesting choice for guests who prioritize peace, natural surroundings, and a small beach over easy road access.

Old Zaraće – stone houses and forgotten life on the hillside

Zaraće has not always been a seaside settlement. Its older part is located high above the coastal coves, on a rocky elevation that offers a wide view of the southern coast of Hvar.

The old village developed as a small agricultural community, where residents engaged in viticulture, olive growing, herb cultivation, and livestock farming. The houses were built of stone, close to each other, with narrow passages and small courtyards adapted to the steep terrain.

During the 20th century, the population gradually migrated, primarily to the town of Hvar and other more developed areas. Today, some houses have been restored, while others retain the appearance of a once-abandoned village.

Particularly interesting are the old stone walls, narrow streets, former agricultural spaces, and a small church dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary. Its interior is not permanently open for tourist visits.

A walk through old Zaraće reveals a completely different side of the place than that experienced by visitors at the beaches. Here, it is easier to imagine how life was before tourism, when daily life was determined by work in the fields, vineyards, olive groves, and distance from larger settlements.

Due to its elevated position, the old village is also interesting for its views of the sea and surrounding hills. It is most pleasant to visit in the morning or late afternoon when temperatures are lower.

The Rocky Cape of Zaraće – a natural symbol of the place

The large rocky cape that separates Malo and Velo Zaraće is the most recognizable part of the landscape of this area.

The long, narrow limestone rock extends far into the sea, almost like a natural breakwater. Its surface is etched with layers and cracks, and in some places, the rock has distinctly rounded shapes.

Viewed from above the coves, the cape creates an unusual image of two bathing areas situated on opposite sides of the same rock formation. One side faces east, the other west, resulting in different exposures to the sun and waves.

The cape is particularly interesting for photography, and along its edges are rocky bathing areas and parts of the seabed suitable for exploration.

However, it is not a developed promenade. The rocks are uneven and sometimes slippery, so caution is advised when moving, especially after waves or during strong winds.

Restaurants in Zaraće – fish, Dalmatian cuisine, and seaside terraces

For such a small place, Zaraće has an interesting dining offer, especially during the summer months.

Restaurant Gego, located right by Velo Zaraće beach, is known for its fresh fish, squid, octopus, and seafood specialties. Its terrace is almost on the shore, making it particularly convenient for guests who want to combine swimming and lunch. The cove also has mooring buoys connected to the restaurant, allowing for arrival by private boat with prior arrangement.

Restaurant Veli Dolac, above Paščuka beach, is interesting due to its secluded location and terrace overlooking the small beach. It offers fish and other Mediterranean dishes, and access to the restaurant is via a dirt road. On Google Maps, the establishment is marked under the name Llobarro Boníssim south side.

The main advantage of the restaurants in Zaraće is their proximity to the sea. Instead of driving to the town of Hvar, one can spend the day at the beach and finish with lunch or dinner overlooking the cove.

Accommodation in Zaraće – seaside apartments and stone houses in the old village

The accommodation options in Zaraće are relatively limited and mainly consist of private apartments, holiday homes, and restored stone houses.

In the coastal area, especially around Velo Zaraće, there are several properties located very close to the sea. This is a significant advantage for guests who want daily swimming without using a car.

Staying in the old part of Zaraće provides a different experience. Here, one resides among traditional stone houses in a quieter environment, with views of the southern coast and surrounding hills.

For a stay in Zaraće, it is particularly important to check the exact location of the accommodation. An apartment in the coastal area may be just a few steps from the beach, while accommodation in the old village is significantly higher above the sea and requires driving or a longer walk.

Zaraće is most suitable for couples, small families, and guests seeking a peaceful holiday. There are no large shops, developed nightlife, or a wide range of services, so for larger purchases and additional amenities, the town of Hvar is practical.

How to get to Zaraće?

Zaraće is located along the road between the town of Hvar and Stari Grad, approximately seven kilometers east of the town of Hvar.

From the town of Hvar, it takes about ten minutes by car to reach the turnoff for Zaraće. The main island road runs above the coastal coves, and a separate narrow road leads to the beaches.

To reach Velo and Malo Zaraće, one must turn off the main road and descend towards the sea. The access road is paved but very steep and winding, and in some sections, passing other vehicles requires caution.

In the lower part of Zaraće, the road splits towards the beaches. Velo Zaraće is located to the east, while the road to Malo Zaraće continues to the west.

Access to the old Zaraće is via a different route from the main road, leading to the elevation above the sea. Therefore, when navigating, it is important to distinguish whether you are looking for the old village or the beaches in the lower part of the settlement.

It is also possible to reach Zaraće by boat from the town of Hvar. This is particularly interesting for a day trip, as the unusual shape of the rocky cape and both coves are best seen from the sea.

Bus lines between the town of Hvar and Stari Grad run along the main road D116, passing the area of Zaraće. When planning to arrive by bus, it is advisable to check the stopping location and current timetable in advance, as the bus does not go down to the beaches.

Parking and movement between beaches

Parking is one of the biggest practical challenges in Zaraće during July and August.

In the lower part of the settlement, there are limited parking spaces, and some areas are located next to restaurants and private properties. There is no large public parking lot that can accommodate all vehicles during peak summer crowds.

It is best to arrive early in the morning when it is easier to find a permitted parking space. Do not leave the car on the narrow access road, turning areas, or access points to private houses.

It is possible to walk between Malo and Velo Zaraće through the inhabited part along the coast. To visit both beaches, it is not necessary to return to the main road.

Paščuka is accessed via a separate dirt road, so it is not practical to treat it as a simple continuation of a walk between the main beaches of Zaraće.

If you plan to visit both coves and have lunch at a restaurant in one day, the simplest option is to park in a permitted spot in lower Zaraće and then walk.

What to visit in the vicinity of Zaraće?

Zaraće is a good starting point for exploring the western part of the southern coast of Hvar.

To the west is Dubovica Beach, one of the most famous beaches on Hvar, with a large pebble shore, clear water, and an old stone summer house right by the coast. Access is via a steep walking path from the main road.

East of Zaraće are the Red Rocks, unusual reddish limestone cliffs that steeply descend into the sea. They are easiest to visit by boat and are particularly interesting for photography and swimming during calm weather.

Further east is Sveta Nedjelja, known for its vineyards of Plavac Mali, the Zlatan Otok winery, the Bilo Idro marina, and climbing rocks. Above the village rises Sveti Nikola, the highest peak of Hvar Island.

Due to its proximity to the town of Hvar, Zaraće is also practical for guests who want to combine a peaceful stay by the sea with occasional trips to the town, its old town, restaurants, and evening events.

When is the best time to visit Zaraće?

The best period for swimming is from June to September when the sea is warm enough for extended stays at the beach.

July and August are the busiest months. Seasonal restaurants operate during this time, but the beaches and limited parking spaces are also the most crowded.

June and September are particularly pleasant for guests who want to avoid the largest crowds. The sea is often comfortable for swimming, and in the small coves, it is easier to find space for towels and relaxation.

For exploring the old village and walking in the surrounding rocky landscape, spring and autumn are more pleasant when there are no extreme heat.

Zaraće is especially beautiful in the early morning when the beaches are quieter and in the late afternoon when the sunlight changes on the large rocky cliffs. Due to the opposite orientation of the two coves, it is possible to choose between different sun and shade positions throughout the day.

Why choose Zaraće for a holiday on Hvar?

Zaraće is one of the few places on Hvar where two completely different beaches, interesting natural rocks, seaside restaurants, and an almost abandoned old village can be experienced in a very small area.

It is particularly appealing to guests who do not seek large tourist facilities but rather clear waters, beautiful landscapes, and accommodation close to natural swimming spots. Those who enjoy exploring the underwater world will find many interesting rock formations here, while photography enthusiasts will appreciate the views of the large rocky cape and the two coves.

Due to limited parking, steep access roads, and a small selection of shops, Zaraće may not be the most practical choice for everyone. However, it is precisely this place for a holiday where a day can pass between swimming, lunch by the sea, and evening tranquility on the terrace, without large crowds and urban hustle.

Useful information

• Location: Southern coast of Hvar Island, east of the town of Hvar.
• Administrative affiliation: Town of Hvar, Split-Dalmatia County.
• Population: 8 according to the 2021 Census.
• Parts of the settlement: Old Zaraće on the hill and the coastal area with Velo and Malo Zaraće beaches.
• Main beaches: Velo Zaraće and Malo Zaraće.
• Nearby beach: Paščuka, also known for the restaurant Veli Dolac.
• Type of coast: Pebble beaches, rocky surfaces, and large limestone cliffs.
• Seabed: Pebbly at the main beaches, rocky and stony at the edges of the coves.
• Natural shade: More available in parts of Malo Zaraće under the pines and along the cliffs; Velo Zaraće is predominantly sunny.
• Special feature: Long rocky cape that separates the two coves.
• Sights: Old stone village of Zaraće, traditional houses, church of the Blessed Virgin Mary, and characteristic stone cliffs.
• Restaurants: Gego in Velo Zaraće and Veli Dolac above Paščuka beach.
• Access by car: Via the main road D116, then a narrow and steep access road to the coast.
• Parking: Limited number of spaces in the lower part of the settlement, with additional spaces connected to private and hospitality establishments.
• Bus: Lines run along the main road D116; current timetable and stopping location need to be checked before traveling.
• Access by boat: Possible from the town of Hvar or by private vessel.
• Shops: For larger purchases and a wider range of services, the town of Hvar is practical.
• Accommodation: Private apartments, holiday homes, and restored stone houses.
• Activities: Swimming, snorkeling, photography, walking in the old village, and boat excursions.
• Best time for swimming: June – September.
• Recommended for: Couples, families, nature beach lovers, peaceful holidays, and exploring the southern coast of Hvar.