Gdinj on Hvar – tranquil coves, stone hamlets and two coastlines

Gdinj is one of those places on Hvar that cannot be fully appreciated by merely passing along the main road. The central part of the settlement is located inland on the eastern side of Hvar, at about 360 metres above sea level, but the area of Gdinj descends towards the sea on both sides of the island. Its numerous coves – some on the southern and others on the northern coast – are the primary reason visitors come here for a holiday.

This is not Hvar of large hotels, bustling promenades and evening crowds. Gdinj is quite different: old stone houses scattered across several hamlets, olive groves, dry stone walls, aromatic herbs and small coastal coves that are often accessed via narrow local roads. Accommodation is mainly situated by the sea, while the daily life of the old village unfolds a few kilometres away along the main island road.

As such, Gdinj is best suited to guests who prioritise peace, clear waters and the feeling of being away from major tourist centres over promenades, nightlife and a wide range of amenities within a short walk.

Gdinj is not a compact village

One of the first things to understand before arriving is that Gdinj does not have a classic centre around which the entire place is concentrated.

The historical settlement consists of eight hamlets: Nova Crkva, Stara Crkva, Banovi Dvori, Vrvolići, Visoka, Talkovići, Bonkovići and Dugi Dolac. Among the stone houses, old courtyards, agricultural buildings, dry stone walls, olive groves and traces of former agricultural life can still be seen. The official tourist website of Jelsa places Gdinj at 361 metres above sea level, 25 km east of Jelsa and 24 km west of Sućuraj.

From these old hamlets, roads lead down to numerous coves. Therefore, the label “Gdinj” for an apartment or holiday home does not necessarily mean that the accommodation is in the village itself. The property may be several kilometres away, right by the sea, on either the northern or southern side of the island.

This is very important when booking accommodation: it is essential to check the exact cove, access by car, parking, the final stretch of road, and the distance to the beach, shops and restaurants.

Two coastlines – Gdinj's greatest feature

Few places on Hvar offer tourists such a straightforward choice between two completely differently oriented coastlines.

From Gdinj, one can descend towards the southern coast of Hvar, open to Korčula and the open sea, or towards the northern coast, facing Brač and the mainland. Local sources highlight the accessibility of beaches on both sides of the island as one of Gdinj's main features, and the wider area has a large number of smaller pebble coves.

This is significant not only for the choice of beach but also for the weather. When the strong bura wind blows, the northern coves can be considerably more exposed. Conversely, during the jugo wind, the southern coast experiences more wind and waves. Therefore, during a multi-day stay, it is worthwhile to monitor the wind and choose the side of the island accordingly.

Southern coast of Gdinj – small coves and open sea

On the southern side, some of the most well-known Gdinj coves are located: Tvrdni Dolac, Veprinova, Rapak, Torac, Skozanje, Srhov Dolac and Medvidina.

They share a calmer atmosphere and relatively low development, but they are not all the same. Some coves have a few houses and hospitality facilities along the beach, while others are significantly more secluded. Access, the amount of natural shade, beach size and parking availability also vary.

The beaches are mostly pebbly or a combination of pebbles, stones and rocks, with clear waters that quickly take on a deep blue hue. In some places, the seabed near the shore can be finer and more pleasant for entry, but this does not mean they are sandy beaches.

Tvrdni Dolac and Torac are good choices if you are looking for a typical small Hvar cove with houses by the sea, while Skozanje, Srhov Dolac and Medvidina provide an even stronger sense of distance from larger settlements. Veprinova stands out for its restaurant right by the sea.

Before visiting any of these coves, it is advisable to check the road conditions separately. Some access roads are paved, while on certain routes, the final stretch may be narrower, poorer or unpaved. One should not assume that all coves are connected by a good coastal road simply because they appear close on the map.

Northern coast – views towards Brač and Biokovo

The northern side of Gdinj has a different character. Here you will find Zaraće near Gdinj, Veli Kučac, Pobij and Pakomina, and in the wider coastal area to the west, there is also Pokrivenik.

It is important to distinguish Zaraće near Gdinj from the more well-known Veliki Zarać and Mali Zarać near the town of Hvar. These are not the same locations. Zaraće near Gdinj is located on the northern coast of the eastern part of the island.

The name Veli Kučac is also worth remembering – on online maps, it may appear under the generic name “Kučac beach”, but the local name for the cove and beach is Veli Kučac.

The northern coves often provide wide views towards Brač, the Makarska Riviera and Biokovo. The sea can be exceptionally calm and clear when there is no wind, but the bura can significantly change swimming conditions here. Therefore, it is advisable to check the forecast before descending the long local road to the coast.

Pakomina differs from completely deserted coves as there is a restaurant by the sea, while Pobij is appealing to those seeking a smaller and quieter coastal area.

Beaches of Gdinj – for a holiday without large crowds

The greatest value of Gdinj's beaches lies not in sun loungers, water parks or long promenades. Quite the opposite.

Visitors come here for small pebble beaches, rocky shores, clear waters, and the fact that in many coves, one can still spend a day without the feeling of being in a large tourist destination.

This, however, means that one should arrive prepared. Smaller beaches often lack showers, changing cabins, shops or other typical beach facilities. Natural shade also varies from cove to cove, so an umbrella is very useful if planning to spend the whole day by the sea.

For families with small children, it is especially important to check the access to specific beaches. Some are right next to houses and roads, while others have less practical access or rockier parts of the shore.

Old Gdinj is worth visiting at least once

Although most guests spend the majority of their time in the coves during the summer, it would be a shame to stay in this area and never take a stroll through old Gdinj.

The place is historically linked to the area of Plame, a name for the eastern part of Hvar that appears in the Hvar Statute from 1331. Prehistoric burial mounds have also been found in the vicinity, indicating that this area was used long before the establishment of today’s hamlets. Gdinj has developed over the centuries as a pastoral and agricultural area, and traces of such life are still visible in the arrangement of houses, stone courtyards and dry stone walls.

The population has significantly declined throughout the 20th century – Gdinj had over 800 inhabitants in 1910, while today just over a hundred people live there permanently. This is why some old hamlets appear almost unrealistically quiet outside the summer season.

New and Old Church of St. George

The most important sacred narrative of Gdinj consists of two churches associated with St. George.

The current parish church of St. George the Martyr is located in the hamlet of Nova Crkva and was built in 1901. It is a larger stone church with a distinctive three-part bell tower and remains the centre of parish life in the area.

About 800 metres away, in the area of Stara Crkva, lies the several centuries older Old Church of St. George, now known as the Church of Our Lady of Health. It dates back to the mid-16th century and is first mentioned in writing in 1558. Due to its stone roof, side chapels and location outside the current centre, it has a completely different character from the new parish church.

In Dugi Dolac, there is also the Church of St. Roch, whose current building was erected in 1891 on the foundations of an older chapel, while in Visoka, there is a small Church of St. Peter.

Fjori Fora Garden – a different perspective on Hvar

Among the few arranged attractions in Gdinj, Fjori Fora Garden stands out.

The garden was created on a former vineyard and fields of lavender and rosemary, retaining the old dry stone walls as part of the space. It is divided into six thematic areas dedicated to the wild and useful herbs of Hvar, through which a circular path leads. The idea is not only to showcase beautiful Mediterranean herbs but to explain how the islanders traditionally used them in food, cosmetics, daily life and ancient crafts.

For guests spending several days exclusively by the sea, this is a good reason to venture inland for at least one afternoon and discover a completely different side of Hvar.

Where to eat in the Gdinj area

Although the area is sparsely populated, there are interesting restaurants located in several secluded coves.

On the southern coast in Veprinova, you will find Fish Restaurant Veprinova, while on the northern side by the sea is Pakomina Restaurant. In Pokrivenik, there is Restaurant Preza, and Marini is set in a peaceful rural setting in the Gdinj area.

The restaurant offerings in this part of Hvar are highly seasonal, so it makes sense to check if the desired establishment is open that day and, when necessary, to reserve a table before heading to a remote cove.

Unlike Jelsa or the town of Hvar, it is unrealistic to expect a row of restaurants and bars next to each other here. This is part of the character of the place – dinner is often a targeted trip to a specific cove or restaurant, rather than an evening stroll along the promenade.

How to get to Gdinj

Gdinj lies right next to the state road D116, the main road connection that runs along the island of Hvar.

It is about 25 km from Jelsa and about 24 km from Sućuraj, making it accessible from both sides of the island. For guests arriving in Hvar by ferry from Drvenik via Sućuraj, Gdinj is one of the more practical destinations on the island as it does not require driving all the way to the western part of Hvar.

The village itself is easily reached via the main asphalt road. The situation changes only when descending towards certain coves. At that point, local roads may be narrow, steep and winding, and the final part of access to some coves may involve unpaved roads.

Due to the area's ruggedness, a car is practically the most useful means of staying in Gdinj. The distances between villages, coves and restaurants are not suitable for daily walking, especially in summer.

Accommodation – first choose a cove, then an apartment

In Gdinj, the location of accommodation is more important than in most other places on Hvar.

Two houses marked with the address “Gdinj” can, in practice, be on completely different sides of the island. One may be on the southern coast in Veprinova or Skozanje, while the other is on the northern side in Pakomina or Pobij.

Therefore, before making a reservation, it is advisable to look at a map, not just the name of the place. It is good to check:

• the exact cove where the property is located
• whether the entire access is paved or if part leads to unpaved roads
• if there is parking associated with the accommodation
• how far it is to walk to the beach
• whether there is a restaurant or other amenities in the cove
• how far the nearest larger shop is
• how much natural shade is available on the beach

Private parking for apartments should not be confused with public parking for beach visitors.

Who will enjoy Gdinj the most?

Gdinj is a good choice for those who wish to spend a significant part of their holiday by the sea and are comfortable driving to get groceries, dinner or to another cove.

It will particularly suit couples, families and guests seeking privacy, small beaches and a slower pace. It is also good for those who are already familiar with Hvar and wish to avoid the busiest areas of the western part of the island this time.

On the other hand, if evening promenades, numerous shops, bars, public transport and amenities within walking distance are a priority, Jelsa, Stari Grad or the town of Hvar will be more practical choices.

In Gdinj, the greatest luxury is precisely what is often lacking elsewhere – space, tranquillity and the option to choose a different small cove each day.

Useful information

• Location: eastern part of Hvar, Municipality of Jelsa
• Altitude of the village: approximately 360 m
• Distance from Jelsa: approximately 25 km
• Distance from Sućuraj: approximately 24 km
• Main road: D116
• Character of the place: dispersed old settlement with eight hamlets and numerous coves on both coasts of Hvar
• Beaches: mostly smaller pebble and rocky shores with very clear waters
• Southern coast: Tvrdni Dolac, Veprinova, Rapak, Torac, Skozanje, Srhov Dolac, Medvidina
• Northern coast: Zaraće near Gdinj, Veli Kučac, Pobij, Pakomina and the area towards Pokrivenik
• Wind: northern coves are more exposed to the bura, while the southern coast is more exposed to the jugo
• Natural shade: varies from beach to beach; for more remote coves, it is advisable to bring your own sun protection
• Access to beaches: via local roads; the quality and surface of the last part of the road vary depending on the cove
• Parking: there is no unified parking system for Gdinj's coves; private parking for accommodation is not public parking
• Accommodation: predominantly apartments and holiday homes in specific coves
• Restaurants: several interesting establishments are located in remote coves and the wider Gdinj area; offerings are mainly seasonal
• Attractions: new parish church of St. George, Old Church of St. George – Our Lady of Health, Church of St. Roch, Church of St. Peter and Fjori Fora Garden
• Car: highly recommended due to the large distances between villages and the coast
• Most important before booking: check the exact cove where the accommodation is located, rather than relying solely on the address “Gdinj”