Church of Our Lady of Velog Sela – Ancient Marian Sanctuary in Podselje on Vis
The Church of St. Mary, commonly known as Our Lady of Velog Sela, is located in Podselje in the interior of the island of Vis, on a hill above Veliko Polje. At first glance, it appears to be a quiet village church removed from the main tourist routes, but it is one of the most important sacred sites on the island and a sanctuary that has been tied to the religious life of the people of Vis for centuries.
Podselje was once called Velo Selo and was the largest settlement on the island, long before Luka and Kut developed into the present-day town of Vis. The church stood in its center and served as the parish church for the entire island for a long time. Today, the village is small and quiet, but on August 15th, the scene changes completely – for the Feast of the Assumption, many residents from Vis, Komiža, and other island places return here.
Church Older than the Present Town of Vis
The existence of the Church of St. Mary in this area can be traced back to the 14th century. The earliest documents related to the site date from 1367, while the church itself is mentioned directly in 1372. A document from 1438 refers to it as the parish church of the island of Vis.
At that time, Velo Selo was the main settlement in the interior of the island. A significant change occurred in 1483 when the settlement was plundered and burned by the troops of King Ferrante of Naples-Aragon. The church was also damaged but was later restored.
After this attack, part of the population did not return to the interior but moved towards the safer Vis Bay. It was after this that Luka and Kut began to develop more significantly, leading to the formation of the present town of Vis. Therefore, Our Lady of Velog Sela is not only interesting as an old church – its history is closely linked to the development of the entire town.
A Church That Changed Over the Centuries
The current appearance of the church did not come about all at once. The building has been renovated, expanded, and extended multiple times over the centuries, allowing different phases of construction to be recognized.
The oldest parts belong to the medieval structure, while the church was expanded to the west after the damage in the 15th century. Further renovations and extensions followed, and at the beginning of the 20th century, it received a larger western section that strongly defines its appearance today.
A separate stone bell tower was erected in 1931. In the same year, the Bishop of Hvar, Mihovil Pušić, declared Our Lady of Velog Sela a Marian sanctuary of the Hvar Diocese, officially confirming the importance this site held among the people of Vis many centuries earlier.
The Relief of Our Lady and the Silver Sardine
The most valuable and particularly significant part of the interior is located at the main altar. Here, an old terracotta relief of Our Lady with Child from the late Middle Ages is preserved, which has been the center of devotion to Our Lady of Velog Sela for centuries.
Alongside it is an unusual votive offering – the silver sardine. It was made in honor of an exceptionally large sardine caught near Vis on the night of March 8, 1868.
At that time, sardines were not just one of the types of fish in Vis but an important part of the diet and life of the islanders. According to local tradition, after a long period of very poor catches, the people of Vis vowed to Our Lady, and the return of abundant catches was seen as an answer to their prayers. The silver sardine was left as a votive offering and remains one of the most recognizable details of the sanctuary today.
This story illustrates why Our Lady of Velog Sela was much more to the people of Vis than just a church in the interior of the island. For centuries, fishermen turned to her before going to sea, farmers for their fields and vineyards, and islanders before embarking on distant journeys.
The Assumption – A Day When All Roads Lead to Podselje
The most important day in Podselje is August 15th, the Feast of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary – the Assumption. On this day, Our Lady of Velog Sela becomes the central place of celebration for the entire island of Vis.
Masses and a traditional procession around the church are held, and believers from Vis, Komiža, and other island settlements come to Podselje. The pilgrimage has a long tradition, and some people still walk to the sanctuary.
It is on the Assumption that the significance of this place is best understood. A village that is almost completely quiet for the rest of the year becomes a large island gathering place for one day, just as it was centuries ago.
A visitor wishing to experience the traditional side of Vis will find it hard to find a more authentic day on the island than the celebration of the Assumption in Podselje.
Location and View of the Interior of Vis
The church is located approximately 175 meters above sea level, on the edge of Podselje above Veliko Polje. The surroundings are quite different from Vis by the sea – the village is surrounded by vineyards, fields, stone walls, and hills that create the characteristic landscape of the island's interior.
The journey to Podselje is worth combining with a short walk through the village. From this area, there is a beautiful view over the fields of Vis, especially towards Veliko Polje, one of the most important agricultural areas on the island.
How to Get There from Vis
Podselje is located approximately 6 kilometers from the town of Vis. It can be reached by an asphalt road through the interior of the island, and the drive is not long.
The sanctuary can also be reached on foot. The traditional path from Vis to Podselje is about 5.5 kilometers long and includes an ascent from the town into the interior. The Vis Tourist Board also includes Podselje in marked walking routes through this part of the island.
If arriving by car, it should be noted that Podselje is a small old village and does not have a large tourist parking area like those found near more popular attractions. Outside of major holiday gatherings, access is simpler, while on the Assumption, due to the large number of visitors, one should expect crowds.
Visiting the Church
The church is worth visiting even outside of the Assumption, especially when touring the interior of Vis, Plisko Polje, and the island's vineyards. Podselje is a quiet, unobtrusive tourist destination, and here one can see a part of Vis that many visitors never experience if they only stay along the coast.
If the goal is to view the interior of the church and the relief of Our Lady, it is best to check in advance whether a mass is being held or if the church is open. One should not assume that the interiors of historical island churches are always accessible just because the building can be reached at any time of day.
Useful Information
Location: Podselje – Velo Selo, interior of the island of Vis
Distance from the town of Vis: approximately 6 km
Elevation: approximately 175 m
Dedication: Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary
Also known as: Church of St. Mary, Our Lady of Velog Sela
Earliest written records: 14th century
Main feast: Assumption, August 15th
Access: by car via asphalt road or on foot from Vis
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