Church of Our Lady of Velog Sela – Ancient Marian Sanctuary in Podselje on Vis
The Church of St. Mary, more commonly known as Our Lady of Velog Sela, is situated in Podselje, inland on the island of Vis, on a hill overlooking Veliko Polje. At first glance, it appears to be a tranquil village church, removed from the main tourist routes, but it is in fact one of the most significant sacred sites on the island and a sanctuary that has been central to the religious life of the people of Vis for centuries.
Podselje was once referred to as Velo Selo and was the largest settlement on the island long before Luka and Kut developed into the present-day town of Vis. The church stood at its centre and served as the parish church for the entire island for many years. Today, the village is small and quiet, but on 15th August, the scene changes dramatically – for the Feast of the Assumption, many residents from Vis, Komiža, and other island locales return here.
A Church Older than the Town of Vis
The existence of the Church of St. Mary in this area can be traced back to the 14th century. The earliest documents related to the site date from 1367, while the church itself is mentioned directly in 1372. A document from 1438 refers to it as the parish church of the island of Vis.
At that time, Velo Selo was the main settlement in the island's interior. A significant change occurred in 1483 when the settlement was plundered and burned by the troops of King Ferrante of Naples-Aragon. The church was also damaged but was later restored.
Following this attack, part of the population did not return to the interior but moved towards the safer Vis Bay. This led to the stronger development of Luka and Kut, from which the present town of Vis would emerge. Therefore, Our Lady of Velog Sela is not only interesting as an old church – its history is closely linked to the development of the entire town.
A Church That Has Changed Over the Centuries
The current appearance of the church did not come about all at once. The building has been renovated, expanded, and extended multiple times over the centuries, allowing different phases of construction to be identified.
The oldest parts belong to the medieval structure, while the church was expanded westward after the damage in the 15th century. Further alterations and extensions followed, and at the beginning of the 20th century, a larger western section was added, which now strongly defines its appearance.
A separate stone bell tower was erected in 1931. In the same year, the Bishop of Hvar, Mihovil Pušić, declared Our Lady of Velog Sela a Marian sanctuary of the Hvar Diocese, officially confirming the importance this site had among the people of Vis many centuries earlier.
The Madonna Relief and Silver Sardine
The most valuable and particularly significant part of the interior is located at the main altar. Here lies an ancient terracotta relief of the Madonna with Child from the late Middle Ages, which has been the centre of devotion to Our Lady of Velog Sela for centuries.
Alongside it is an unusual votive offering – a silver sardine. This was crafted in honour of an exceptionally large sardine caught near Vis on the night of 8th March 1868.
At that time, sardines were not just one of the types of fish in Vis but an important part of the diet and life of the islanders. According to local tradition, after a long period of poor catches, the people of Vis vowed to the Madonna, and the return of abundant catches was seen as a fulfilment of their prayers. The silver sardine was left as a votive offering and remains one of the most recognisable details of the sanctuary to this day.
This story illustrates why Our Lady of Velog Sela meant much more to the people of Vis than just a church in the island's interior. For centuries, fishermen have turned to her before heading out to sea, farmers for their fields and vineyards, and islanders before embarking on distant journeys.
The Feast of the Assumption – A Day When All Roads Lead to Podselje
The most important day in Podselje is 15th August, the Feast of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary – the Feast of the Assumption. On this day, Our Lady of Velog Sela becomes the focal point of celebration for the entire island of Vis.
Masses are held, and a traditional procession takes place around the church, with worshippers coming from Vis, Komiža, and other island settlements. The pilgrimage has a long tradition, and some people still walk to the sanctuary.
It is on the Feast of the Assumption that the significance of this place is best understood. The village, which is almost completely quiet for the rest of the year, transforms into a large island gathering place for one day, just as it has been for centuries.
A visitor wishing to experience the traditional side of Vis will find it hard to find a more authentic day on the island than the celebration of the Feast of the Assumption in Podselje.
Location and Views of the Interior of Vis
The church is located approximately 175 metres above sea level, on the edge of Podselje overlooking Veliko Polje. The surroundings are quite different from Vis by the sea – the village is surrounded by vineyards, fields, stone walls, and hills that create the characteristic landscape of the island's interior.
Arriving in Podselje is worth combining with a short walk through the village. From this area, there are lovely views over the fields of Vis, particularly towards Veliko Polje, one of the most important agricultural areas on the island.
How to Get There from Vis
Podselje is located approximately 6 kilometres from the town of Vis. It can be reached by an asphalt road through the island's interior, and the drive is not long.
The sanctuary can also be accessed on foot. The traditional route from Vis to Podselje is about 5.5 kilometres long and involves an ascent from the town into the interior. The Vis Tourist Board also includes Podselje in the marked walking routes through this part of the island.
If arriving by car, it is important to note that Podselje is a small, old village and does not have a large tourist car park like those found at more popular attractions. Outside of major holiday gatherings, access is simpler, while on the Feast of the Assumption, due to the large number of visitors, one should expect crowds.
Visiting the Church
The church is worth visiting even outside of the Feast of the Assumption, especially during a tour of the interior of Vis, Plisko Polje, and the island's vineyards. Podselje is a peaceful, unobtrusive tourist destination, and it is here that one can see a part of Vis that many visitors never experience if they only stay along the coast.
If the aim is to view the interior of the church and the Madonna relief, it is best to check in advance whether mass is being held or if the church is open. One should not assume that the interiors of historical island churches are always accessible simply because the building can be reached at any time of day.
Useful Information
Location: Podselje – Velo Selo, inland on the island of Vis
Distance from the town of Vis: approximately 6 km
Elevation: approximately 175 m
Dedication: The Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary
Also known as: Church of St. Mary, Our Lady of Velog Sela
Earliest written records: 14th century
Main feast day: The Feast of the Assumption, 15th August
Access: by car via asphalt road or on foot from Vis
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