Zavala on Hvar – the most beautiful beaches of the southern coast, views of Šćedro and tranquility beneath Hvar's vineyards

Zavala is a small village located on the southern side of Hvar Island, nestled between steep slopes covered with vineyards and one of the most beautiful parts of the Hvar coastline. In front of the village lies Šćedro, with Korčula behind it, and along the coast, there are almost uninterrupted stretches of small pebble beaches, rocky swimming spots, and hidden coves with exceptionally clear water.

There is no large promenade, marina, or loud nightlife here. Zavala is a place where the day revolves around the sea: in the morning, you choose a beach, at midday, you seek shade or lunch by the shore, and in the evening, you sit on a terrace overlooking Šćedro.

This is its greatest advantage. Zavala is developed enough to have good restaurants, bars, and accommodation, yet still small enough for nature to take precedence over tourist infrastructure.

Old Zavala above the sea and the new settlement by the coast

Zavala actually has two distinct faces.

The older part is located higher up the slope, among stone houses, gardens, and former agricultural land. Historically, Zavala developed as a settlement connected to Pitve, and its position further from the sea was typical for times when residents of the southern coast needed to be more protected from sea attacks.

Over time, life gradually moved down towards the coast.

The current tourist part of Zavala stretches approximately two kilometres along the sea, from the area of Petarčica in the west to the Zaca harbour in the east. Here, you will find most of the apartments, beaches, restaurants, and beach bars.

If you stay by the sea, much of Zavala can be explored on foot without the need for a car every day.

Zavala has only 171 permanent residents

According to the 2021 Census, Zavala has 171 residents.

In summer, the picture is quite different as the number of people multiplies with the arrival of homeowners, guests in apartments, and day visitors.

Despite this, Zavala does not feel like a large tourist destination even at the height of summer. There are no large hotels, wide roads, or intense evening crowds as found in larger Hvar centres.

The Pitve Tunnel – Zavala: entering a completely different side of Hvar

Arriving in Zavala is part of the experience.

From Jelsa, you drive towards Pitve, then enter the Pitve – Zavala tunnel, also known as the Vratnik tunnel. It is approximately 1.4 kilometres long and only 2.3 metres wide.

This tunnel is not a typical modern road tunnel. The walls and ceiling are roughly hewn from the rock, the passage is narrow, and traffic is regulated by traffic lights.

It was built in the early 1960s for water supply purposes and later repurposed for road traffic.

Bicycles, mopeds, and motorcycles are not allowed to pass through the tunnel.

The first exit from the tunnel towards Zavala is hard to forget: suddenly, the sea, Šćedro, and Korčula open up before you, while the road steeply descends down the sunny southern slope of Hvar.

The southern side of Hvar means more sun and open sea

Zavala lies on an exceptionally sunny side of the island.

The slopes above the village protect it from cooler northern winds, while the coast is open to the Šćedro Channel. This means plenty of sunshine, very clear water, and excellent swimming conditions for a long part of the year.

However, the southern orientation also means that during a strong southerly wind, the sea can change completely. Calm turquoise coves can become choppy, so for trips to more distant beaches, it is best to choose a stable day.

On calm days with a light maestral, conditions are almost ideal.

The beaches are the main reason to visit Zavala

If the main goal of your holiday is daily swimming at a different beach, Zavala is one of the best places on Hvar.

Along two kilometres of coastline, larger pebble beaches alternate with small natural coves and rocky swimming spots. Some have a bar and restaurant just steps from the sea, while others require you to bring water, food, and sun protection.

Due to this variety, there is no need to get in the car every day.

Zaca – a practical beach with a bar and restaurant by the sea

At the eastern end of the main coastal area lies Zaca.

On Google Maps, the main beach is marked as Zavala Beach, but this entire part of the village is associated with the harbour and the Zaca locality.

The beach is pebbly, with clear water and easy access. Right next to it is the Zaca Bar & Restaurant, making it particularly convenient for families and guests who want to spend the whole day by the sea without carrying food and drinks.

There is not much natural shade on the beach, so it is worth bringing an umbrella for a longer stay.

Skalinada and Velo žalo – one of the most practical beaches in Zavala

Below the Skalinada complex lies one of the most well-known beaches in the village.

This part of the coast is locally associated with Velo žalo, while on Google Maps it is marked as Skalinada Beach.

The shore is pebbly, the entry into the sea is easy, and just above the beach are Terra Nova Beach & Cocktail Bar and Restaurant Skalinada.

For this reason, it is an excellent choice for families and guests who want to combine swimming, shade, lunch, and evening drinks without moving their cars.

Molva – a small cove for quieter swimming

Molva Beach is significantly smaller.

The pebbly part of the cove is surrounded by characteristic reddish and ochre rocks, and there is a small natural rock hollow along the shore.

Molva has no beach bar or extensive infrastructure. It is accessed by foot along the coastal path and is ideal for a few peaceful hours by the sea.

On such a small beach, a dozen additional bathers are immediately noticeable, so in July and August, it is best to arrive early.

Petarčica – a small family cove at the western end

On the western side of Zavala lies Petarčica, one of the more pleasant small coves for families.

The shore consists of smaller, smooth pebbles, and the entry into the water is gentle. Nearby is the Cafe Bar Petarčica, where you can enjoy coffee, a cold drink, ice cream, or a simple toast.

In the rocky part of the cove, there is also a small natural cave.

Parking is limited here, so Petarčica is much more practical for guests who can reach it on foot.

Eva – a small wild beach for those who don’t mind a steep access

Further west is Eva Beach, completely different from the beaches in the populated part of Zavala.

This is a very small cove beneath a steep coast. The car is left by the road above the sea, and access to the beach involves a walk down.

There are no facilities or proper shade on the shore, but the water is exceptionally clear, and the seabed is very interesting. There is an underwater rock hollow next to the cove, and a little further out, the bottom drops off sharply into deeper water.

Eva is a better choice for good swimmers, couples, and lovers of wild coves than for families with very young children.

FKK beach Stela behind Zaca harbour

East of Zaca harbour lies a small FKK beach Stela, secluded behind the breakwater.

It is accessed via a short coastal path, and the combination of pebbly areas, rocks, and greenery gives it a much more intimate character than the main beaches.

On Google Maps, it is marked as Beach Stela.

There are no catering facilities or developed infrastructure, so everything needed must be brought from Zaca.

Žučica – pines, pebbles, and peace east of the village

For even quieter swimming, head east from Zavala.

Žučica is a beautiful natural cove with a pebbly shore and pines behind the beach. Unlike many beaches on the southern side, there is also good natural shade here.

There are no bars, restaurants, sun loungers, or showers.

You can drive to the area above the beach along a dirt road, leave the car by the road, and then walk a few minutes.

Žučica is an excellent choice when you want to escape from developed beaches but do not want a challenging access like Eva.

Towards Gromin Dolac, the coast becomes almost wild

East of Zavala, the asphalt ends and the dirt road to Gromin Dolac begins.

After a few kilometres, houses become sparse, and the landscape is almost entirely natural.

Gromin Dolac beach has finer pebbles, very clear water, and steep cliffs in the background. Next to it is the Wilson's Beach Bar, a small bar connected to the Cast Away eco settlement.

There is no atmosphere of a large beach club here. A few sun loungers, hammocks, cocktails, kayaks, or SUPs suit the whole place much better.

For Holiday Link beaches in this area, it is practical to connect with Zavala as it is the closest tourist centre with restaurants and basic amenities.

Šćedro – a day trip that makes the most sense from Zavala

The island of Šćedro lies just in front of Zavala and is part of the view from its beaches all day long.

The best way to explore it is by boat.

Šćedro has no large settlements or traffic, and its deep, well-protected coves have served as safe anchorages for centuries. Today, it is visited for swimming, lunch, and a few hours of complete escape from the crowds.

If you are staying in Zavala for several days, it makes sense to include at least one trip to Šćedro in your plans.

The sea and underwater sightseeing

Zavala is excellent for snorkelling.

On the main pebble beaches, the seabed is simpler, but almost every cove has rocky edges where larger stones, crevices, and more interesting marine life begin.

Molva, Eva, Žučica, and the edges of smaller natural coves are particularly interesting.

The water is clearest early in the morning and during days without a southerly wind.

The vineyards above Zavala

The steep slopes above the village belong to one of the most famous wine-growing landscapes of Hvar.

The southern side of the island is known for its sun-exposed positions, where Plavac mali achieves great concentration and ripeness.

The vineyards are as much a part of Zavala's appearance as the sea. When you rise from the coastal area towards the older houses, the tourist settlement is quickly replaced by stone, dry walls, and vineyards.

For local wine, it is worth visiting OPG Ladovina, a small wine bar and family farm in the upper part of the village.

Where to eat in Zavala?

For such a small place, Zavala has a very good gastronomic offer.

Restaurant Skalinada is particularly interesting for fish, gregada, shellfish, octopus, and other Mediterranean dishes, with a large terrace overlooking Šćedro and Korčula.

Restaurant Davor is located in the eastern part of the village and is a good choice for fresh fish, lešoda, swordfish carpaccio, gregada, and homemade gnocchi.

Konoba Zavala in the higher part of the settlement offers fish, squid, octopus, grill, and peka, which is best arranged in advance.

For a completely informal lunch by the beach, there is Zaca Bar & Restaurant, where you can order pizza, burgers, or something simpler after swimming alongside seafood dishes.

Beach bars and evening drinks

Zavala is not a place for clubbing in the evening.

Instead, you can sit down for a cocktail at Terra Nova above Skalinada beach, have a drink in Zaca, or end the day with a glass of wine at Ladovina.

Cafe Bar Petarčica remains a simpler option right by the sea, especially for daytime coffee or a cold drink after swimming.

For a completely secluded atmosphere, Wilson's in Gromin Dolac requires a few kilometres of dirt road, but in return offers one of the quietest places for an afternoon cocktail in this part of Hvar.

Church of St. Leopold Mandic and St. Nicholas

In the upper part of Zavala stands the modern Church of St. Leopold Mandic and St. Nicholas.

Construction began in the early 21st century, and the interior is particularly distinguished by a handcrafted wooden Stations of the Cross.

The church does not have typical tourist opening hours. It is safest to visit during mass or when the doors are open just before and after services.

The older sacred history of the place is also connected with the Church of St. Peter of Verona, the patron saint of Zavala.

Feast of St. Peter – 29 April

The most important local feast is St. Peter of Verona, celebrated in Zavala on 29 April.

This is a much more local and peaceful event than the large summer festivities on the island, but for that reason, it well illustrates the traditional life of the place before the main tourist season begins.

For a visitor who finds themselves in Hvar at the end of April, this is an interesting date to visit Zavala.

Hiking to St. Anthony and Pitve

Before the tunnel, there was an old path over the hill connecting the southern side with Pitve.

Today, the area above Zavala is interesting for hikers and more active guests. One of the recommended routes leads to St. Anthony, from which wide views of the southern coast, Šćedro, and surrounding islands open up.

For such ascents, summer is not ideal.

The best times are spring, early autumn, or very early morning, with enough water and sturdy footwear.

Zavala without a car

If you are already staying in the coastal part of Zavala, your car can remain parked for days.

The beaches from Petarčica through Skalinada and Molva to Zaca are connected by coastal paths and local streets, and restaurants and bars are distributed along the same area.

The car becomes important if you want to reach Žučica, Gromin Dolac, other parts of Hvar, or Jelsa.

Zavala therefore works very well for guests who want a few days of true relaxation without constantly getting into a car.

Parking in Zavala

Parking along the coast is limited.

Most roads in the lower part of the village are narrow and there is no space for large public parking lots. Accommodation facilities often have their own parking spaces, which is the simplest solution if you are staying here.

For day visitors, it is worth using available public and marked spaces in the wider area of the desired beach, and walking the last part.

Near Skalinada, there is private parking for the complex, Davor and Konoba Zavala have more practical parking next to the property, while for Petarčica and smaller coves, it is not advisable to try to reach the sea by car.

In July and August, early morning significantly eases parking.

How to get from Jelsa?

The route from Jelsa to Zavala goes via Pitve and the Pitve – Zavala tunnel.

The drive is not long, but due to narrow roads and the tunnel, it takes longer than one might conclude from the distance alone.

After exiting the tunnel, the road to Zavala branches off to the left.

If you are driving this way for the first time, there is no need to rush. Especially after the tunnel, it is worth slowing down and taking in the panorama of the southern coast before descending towards the village.

Zavala as a base for exploring central Hvar

Although Zavala seems isolated, its location is very good for combining sea and excursions.

Jelsa, Pitve, and the island's interior are on the other side of the tunnel, while to the west along the southern coast are Ivan Dolac and Sveta Nedjelja.

East towards Gromin Dolac, the road becomes dirt and the landscape wilder.

For this reason, from Zavala, one can go to the developed Jelsa in one day, and spend the entire afternoon on a beach accessible via a dusty dirt road on another.

Zavala for families with children

Zavala can be a very good choice for a family holiday, but the choice of accommodation and beach is important.

For small children, the most practical are Skalinada, Zaca, and Petarčica, where the entries into the sea are easier and facilities are relatively close.

For Eva and the more distant wild coves, it is best to wait until the children are more confident in walking and swimming.

A significant advantage of Zavala is that there is no atmosphere of a large busy tourist centre in the coastal area. Evenings are peaceful, and many accommodations are within walking distance of the sea.

When is the best time to visit Zavala?

June is excellent for guests who want long sunny days, warm enough water, and still quiet beaches.

July and August bring the warmest water and a fully open tourist offer, but also the most guests. Small beaches like Molva and Petarčica fill up quickly during this time.

September may be the best month for Zavala. The sea is still warm, the sun is strong, and the atmosphere is significantly quieter.

April and May are great for hiking, cycling, and exploring the wine-growing landscape, while the sea is still for the braver swimmers.

Who will find Zavala most suitable?

Zavala is not the right choice for a guest looking for a large promenade, shopping, clubs, or a different evening programme every day.

It is much better suited for those who want to walk to the beach in the morning, spend the whole day by the clear sea, enjoy good food in the evening, and then return to a peaceful apartment.

It is suitable for families, couples, lovers of natural beaches, and anyone wanting to experience the southern side of Hvar without the intensity of Hvar town.

It will particularly appeal to those who enjoy choosing between the developed and the wild: one day at Zaca or Skalinada with a restaurant by the sea, another day at Žučica or Gromin Dolac with almost no infrastructure.

Why choose Zavala?

The best thing about Zavala is not a specific attraction.

It is the entire space between sunny vineyards, narrow stone paths, small beaches, and Šćedro, which stands on the horizon all day.

You can swim in the completely calm Petarčica in the morning, have fish for lunch on the terrace of Skalinada, enjoy a glass of wine above the village in the evening, and the next day head along the dirt road towards the almost wild cove of Gromin Dolac.

Zavala does not need to look spectacular at every turn. Its greatest value lies in the fact that after a few days, you stop thinking about what to do and simply start living in the rhythm of the sea.

Useful information

• Location: southern side of Hvar Island, Jelsa Municipality
• Population: 171 according to the 2021 Census
• Character of the place: peaceful tourist settlement with smaller beaches, apartments, restaurants, and vineyards
• Old part: on the slope above the sea
• Coastal part: stretches approximately from Petarčica in the west to Zaca in the east
• Most famous beaches and swimming spots: Zaca, Skalinada/Velo žalo, Molva, Petarčica, Eva, FKK Stela, and Žučica
• Beaches east towards Gromin Dolac: more natural, quieter, and accessible via dirt road
• Sea: very clean and clear, best on calm days without a southerly wind
• Natural shade: varies from beach to beach; Žučica has more shade, while Zaca and Eva are very sunny
• Boat trip: Šćedro
• Most important church to visit: Church of St. Leopold Mandic and St. Nicholas
• Local feast: St. Peter of Verona, 29 April
• Gastronomy: fresh fish, gregada, buzara, squid, octopus, peka, and other Dalmatian dishes
• Restaurants: Skalinada, Davor, Konoba Zavala, and Zaca Bar & Restaurant
• Bars: Terra Nova, Petarčica, Zaca, and Wilson's in Gromin Dolac
• Local wine: worth tasting wines from southern Hvar positions and visiting OPG Ladovina
• Arrival from Jelsa: via Pitve and the Pitve – Zavala tunnel
• Tunnel: about 1,400 m long and 2.3 m wide, traffic is regulated by traffic lights
• Motorcycles, mopeds, and bicycles: passage through the tunnel is not allowed
• Parking: limited along the coast; having a private parking space is a significant advantage for accommodation
• Roads: local streets are narrow; east of Zavala towards Gromin Dolac, the road is dirt
• Best time for swimming: June – September
• Quietest periods: June and September
• Best for: peaceful holidays, beaches, families, couples, local gastronomy, wine, and exploring the southern coast of Hvar