Zavala on Hvar – The Most Beautiful Beaches of the Southern Coast, View of Šćedro, and Tranquility Under Hvar's Vineyards

Zavala is a small village located on the southern side of Hvar Island, nestled between steep slopes covered with vineyards and one of the most beautiful parts of the Hvar coastline. In front of the village lies Šćedro, behind it is Korčula, and along the coast, small pebble beaches, rocky swimming spots, and hidden coves with exceptionally clear water alternate almost continuously.

There is no large waterfront, marina, or loud nightlife here. Zavala is a place where the day mainly revolves around the sea: in the morning, a beach is chosen, in the afternoon, shade or lunch by the coast is sought, and in the evening, one sits on a terrace overlooking Šćedro.

This is its greatest advantage. Zavala is developed enough to have good restaurants, bars, and accommodation, yet still small enough for nature to remain more important than tourist infrastructure.

Old Zavala Above the Sea and the New Settlement by the Coast

Zavala actually has two different faces.

The older part is located higher on the slope, among stone houses, gardens, and former agricultural land. Zavala historically developed as a settlement connected to Pitve, and the location further from the sea was typical for times when residents of the southern coast needed to be more protected from sea attacks.

Later, life gradually moved down towards the coast.

The current tourist part of Zavala stretches approximately two kilometers along the sea, from the area Petarčica in the west to the Zaca harbor in the east. Here are most of the apartments, beaches, restaurants, and beach bars.

If you stay by the sea, much of Zavala can be explored on foot without the daily use of a car.

Zavala Has Only 171 Permanent Residents

According to the 2021 Census, Zavala has 171 residents.

In summer, the picture is completely different as the number of people multiplies with the arrival of homeowners, guests in apartments, and day visitors.

Despite this, Zavala does not feel like a large tourist destination even at the height of summer. There are no large hotels, wide roads, or intense evening crowds as found in larger Hvar centers.

Pitve Tunnel – Zavala: Entering a Completely Different Side of Hvar

Arriving in Zavala is part of the experience.

From Jelsa, one drives towards Pitve and then enters the Pitve – Zavala tunnel, also known as the Vratnik tunnel. It is about 1.4 kilometers long and only 2.3 meters wide.

The tunnel is not a classic modern road tunnel. The walls and ceiling are roughly carved into the rock, the passage is narrow, and traffic is regulated alternately by traffic lights.

It was built in the early 1960s for water supply purposes and later repurposed for road traffic.

Bicycles, mopeds, and motorcycles are not allowed to pass through the tunnel.

The first exit from the tunnel towards Zavala is hard to forget: the sea, Šćedro, and Korčula suddenly open up in front, while the road steeply descends down the sunny southern slope of Hvar.

The Southern Side of Hvar Means More Sun and Open Sea

Zavala lies on an exceptionally sunny side of the island.

The slopes above the village protect it from colder northern winds, while the coast is open to the Šćedro Channel. This means plenty of sun, very clean water, and excellent swimming conditions for a long part of the year.

However, the southern orientation also means that with a stronger south wind, the sea can change completely. Calm turquoise coves can become wavy, so it is best to choose a stable day for trips to more distant beaches.

For calm weather and a light maestral, conditions are almost ideal.

Beaches Are the Main Reason to Visit Zavala

If the main goal of your vacation is daily swimming at a different beach, Zavala is one of the best places on Hvar.

Along two kilometers of coastline, larger pebble beaches, small natural coves, and rocky swimming spots alternate. Some have a bar and restaurant just steps from the sea, while others require bringing water, food, and sun protection.

Due to this variety, it is not necessary to get in the car every day.

Zaca – A Practical Beach with a Bar and Restaurant by the Sea

At the eastern end of the main coastal area is Zaca.

On Google Maps, the main beach is marked as Zavala Beach, but this entire part of the village is connected to the harbor and the Zaca site.

The beach is pebbly, with clean water and easy access. Right next to it is Zaca Bar & Restaurant, making it particularly practical for families and guests who want to spend the whole day by the sea without carrying food and drinks.

There is not much natural shade on the beach, so it is worth bringing an umbrella for longer stays.

Skalinada and Velo žalo – One of the Most Practical Beaches in Zavala

Below the Skalinada complex is one of the most well-known beaches in the village.

This part of the coast is locally associated with Velo žalo, while on Google Maps it is marked as Skalinada Beach.

The coast is pebbly, the entry into the sea is easy, and right above the beach are Terra Nova Beach & Cocktail Bar and Restaurant Skalinada.

Therefore, this is an excellent choice for families and guests who want to combine swimming, shade, lunch, and evening drinks without moving their cars.

Molva – A Small Cove for Quieter Swimming

Molva Beach is significantly smaller.

The pebbly part of the cove is surrounded by characteristic reddish and ochre rocks, and there is a small natural rock hollow along the coast.

Molva has no beach bar or large infrastructure. It is accessed by foot along the coastal path and is good for a few peaceful hours by the sea.

On such a small beach, a dozen additional bathers are immediately noticeable, so it is best to arrive early in July and August.

Petarčica – A Small Family Cove at the Western End

On the western part of Zavala is Petarčica, one of the more pleasant small coves for families.

The shore consists of smaller, smooth pebbles, and the entry into the water is gentle. Nearby is Cafe Bar Petarčica, where you can have coffee, a cold drink, ice cream, or a simple toast.

In the rocky part of the cove, there is also a small natural cave.

Parking is limited here, so Petarčica is much more practical for guests who can reach it on foot.

Eva – A Small Wild Beach for Those Unbothered by Steep Access

Further west is Eva Beach, completely different from the beaches in the populated part of Zavala.

This is a very small cove below a steep coast. The car remains on the road above the sea, and access to the beach involves a descent on foot.

There are no facilities or real shade on the shore, but the water is exceptionally clear, and the seabed is very interesting. Next to the cove is an underwater rock hollow, and a little further, the bottom suddenly drops to greater depths.

Eva is a better choice for good swimmers, couples, and lovers of wild coves than for families with very small children.

FKK Beach Stela Behind Zaca Harbor

East of Zaca harbor is a small FKK Beach Stela, secluded behind the breakwater.

It is reached by a short coastal path, and the combination of pebbly areas, rocks, and greenery gives it a significantly more intimate character than the main beaches.

It is marked on Google Maps as Beach Stela.

There are no catering facilities or organized infrastructure, so everything needed should be brought from Zaca.

Žučica – Pines, Pebbles, and Peace East of the Village

For even quieter swimming, head east from Zavala.

Žučica is a beautiful natural cove with a pebbly beach and pines behind it. Unlike many beaches on the southern side, here you can find good natural shade.

There are no bars, restaurants, sunbeds, or showers.

To reach the area above the beach, you drive on a dirt road, leave the car by the road, and then walk for a few minutes.

Žučica is an excellent choice when you want to escape from organized beaches but do not want a challenging access like Eva.

Towards Gromin Dolac, the Coast Becomes Almost Wild

East of Zavala, the asphalt ends, and the dirt road towards Gromin Dolac begins.

After a few kilometers, houses become sparser, and the landscape is almost entirely natural.

Gromin Dolac Beach has a finer pebbly shore, very clean water, and steep cliffs in the background. Next to it is Wilson's Beach Bar, a small bar connected to the Cast Away eco settlement.

There is no atmosphere of a large beach club here. A few sunbeds, hammocks, cocktails, kayaks, or SUPs fit the whole place much better.

For Holiday Link beaches in this area, it is practical to connect with Zavala as it is the closest tourist center with restaurants and basic amenities.

Šćedro – A Day Trip That Makes the Most Sense from Zavala

The island Šćedro lies directly in front of Zavala and is part of the view from its beaches all day.

The best way to explore it is by boat.

Šćedro has no large settlements or traffic, and its deep and well-protected coves have served as safe anchorage for centuries. Today, it is visited for swimming, lunch, and a few hours of complete escape from the crowds.

If you are staying in Zavala for several days, including at least one trip to Šćedro in your plans makes sense.

The Sea and Underwater Exploration

Zavala is excellent for snorkeling.

On the main pebble beaches, the bottom is simpler, but almost every cove has rocky edges where larger rocks, cracks, and more interesting marine life begin.

Molva, Eva, Žučica, and the edges of smaller natural coves are particularly interesting.

The water is clearest early in the morning and during days without a south wind.

Vineyards Above Zavala

The steep slopes above the village belong to one of the most famous vineyard landscapes of Hvar.

The southern side of the island is known for its sun-exposed positions, where Plavac mali achieves great concentration and ripeness.

The vineyards are an important part of Zavala's appearance, just like the sea. When you rise from the coastal part towards the older houses, the tourist settlement is quickly replaced by stone, dry walls, and vineyards.

For local wine, it is worth visiting OPG Ladovina, a small wine bar and family farm in the upper part of the village.

Where to Eat in Zavala?

For such a small place, Zavala has a very good gastronomic offer.

Restaurant Skalinada is particularly interesting for fish, gregada, shellfish, octopus, and other Mediterranean dishes, with a large terrace overlooking Šćedro and Korčula.

Restaurant Davor is located in the eastern part of the village and is a good choice for fresh fish, lešoda, swordfish carpaccio, gregada, and homemade gnocchi.

Konoba Zavala in the higher part of the settlement offers fish, squid, octopus, grill, and peka, which is best arranged in advance.

For a completely informal lunch by the beach, there is Zaca Bar & Restaurant, where you can order pizza, burgers, or something simpler after swimming along with seafood dishes.

Beach Bars and Evening Drinks

Zavala in the evening is not a place for clubbing.

Instead, you can sit for a cocktail at Terra Nova above Skalinada Beach, have a drink at Zaca, or end the day with a glass of wine at Ladovina.

Cafe Bar Petarčica remains a simpler option right by the sea, especially for daytime coffee or a cold drink after swimming.

For a completely secluded atmosphere, Wilson's in Gromin Dolac requires a few kilometers of dirt road driving, but in return offers one of the quietest places for an afternoon cocktail in this part of Hvar.

Church of St. Leopold Mandić and St. Nicholas

In the upper part of Zavala is the modern Church of St. Leopold Mandić and St. Nicholas.

Construction began in the early 21st century, and the interior is particularly distinguished by a handmade wooden Stations of the Cross.

The church does not have classic tourist working hours. It is safest to visit during mass or when the doors are open just before and after the service.

The older sacred history of the place is also connected to the Church of St. Peter of Verona, the patron saint of Zavala.

Feast of St. Peter – April 29

The most important local feast is St. Peter of Verona, celebrated in Zavala on April 29.

This is a much more local and peaceful event than the large summer festivities on the island, but precisely for that reason, it well illustrates the traditional life of the place before the start of the main tourist season.

For a guest who finds themselves in Hvar at the end of April, this is an interesting date to visit Zavala.

Hiking to St. Anthony and Pitve

Before the tunnel, there was an old path over the hill connecting the southern side with Pitve.

Today, the area above Zavala is interesting for hikers and more active guests. One of the recommended routes leads to St. Anthony, from which wide views of the southern coast, Šćedro, and surrounding islands open up.

For such ascents, summer is not ideal.

The best times are spring, early autumn, or very early morning, with enough water and sturdy footwear.

Zavala Without a Car

If you are already accommodated in the coastal part of Zavala, the car can remain parked for days.

The beaches from Petarčica through Skalinada and Molva to Zaca are connected by coastal paths and local streets, and restaurants and bars are distributed along the same area.

The car becomes important if you want to reach Žučica, Gromin Dolac, other parts of Hvar, or Jelsa.

Zavala therefore works very well for guests who want a few days of true relaxation without constantly getting into a car.

Parking in Zavala

Parking along the coast is limited.

Most roads in the lower part of the village are narrow and there is no space for large public parking lots. Accommodation facilities often have their own parking spaces, which is the simplest solution if you are staying here.

For daily visits, it is worth using available public and marked spaces in the wider area of the desired beach, and walking the last part.

Near Skalinada, there is a private parking complex, Davor and Konoba Zavala have more practical parking next to the facility, while for Petarčica and smaller coves, it is not advisable to try to reach the sea by car.

In July and August, early morning significantly eases parking.

How to Get from Jelsa?

The route from Jelsa to Zavala goes through Pitve and the Pitve – Zavala tunnel.

The drive is not long, but due to narrow roads and the tunnel, it takes longer than one might conclude just from the distance.

After exiting the tunnel, the road to Zavala branches left.

If you are driving this route for the first time, there is no need to rush. Especially after the tunnel, it is worth slowing down and enjoying the panorama of the southern coast before descending towards the village.

Zavala as a Base for Exploring Central Hvar

Although Zavala seems isolated, its location is very good for combining sea and excursions.

Jelsa, Pitve, and the interior of the island are on the other side of the tunnel, while to the west along the southern coast are Ivan Dolac and Sveta Nedjelja.

East towards Gromin Dolac, the road becomes dirt and the landscape wilder.

For this reason, from Zavala, one can spend one day in the organized Jelsa and another afternoon at a beach accessed by a dusty dirt road.

Zavala for Families with Children

Zavala can be a very good choice for a family vacation, but the choice of accommodation and beach is important.

For small children, the most practical are Skalinada, Zaca, and Petarčica, where the entries into the sea are easier and facilities are relatively close.

For Eva and distant wild coves, it is best to wait until the children are more confident in walking and swimming.

A significant advantage of Zavala is that there is no atmosphere of a large busy tourist center in the coastal part. Evenings are calm, and many accommodations are within walking distance of the sea.

When is the Best Time to Visit Zavala?

June is excellent for guests who want long sunny weather, warm enough sea, and still quiet beaches.

July and August bring the warmest sea and a fully open tourist offer, but also the most guests. Small beaches like Molva and Petarčica fill up quickly then.

September may be the best month for Zavala. The sea is still warm, the sun is strong, and the atmosphere is significantly calmer.

April and May are great for hiking, cycling, and exploring the vineyard landscape, while the sea is still for the braver swimmers.

Who Will Most Enjoy Zavala?

Zavala is not the right choice for a guest looking for a large waterfront, shopping, clubs, or a different evening program every day.

It is much better for people who want to walk to the beach in the morning, spend the whole day by the clean sea, enjoy good food in the evening, and then return to a quiet apartment.

It suits families, couples, nature beach lovers, and anyone who wants to experience the southern side of Hvar without the intensity of the town of Hvar.

It will especially appeal to those who enjoy choosing between organized and wild: one day at Zaca or Skalinada with a restaurant by the sea, the next day at Žučica or Gromin Dolac with almost no infrastructure.

Why Choose Zavala?

The best thing about Zavala is not a specific attraction.

It is the entire space between sunny vineyards, narrow stone paths, small beaches, and Šćedro that stands on the horizon all day.

You can swim in the completely calm Petarčica in the morning, have fish for lunch on the terrace of Skalinada, enjoy wine above the village in the evening, and the next day head along the dirt road to the almost wild cove of Gromin Dolac.

Zavala does not need to look spectacular at every turn. Its greatest value lies in the fact that after a few days, you stop thinking about what to do and simply start living in the rhythm of the sea.

Useful Information

• Location: southern side of Hvar Island, Municipality of Jelsa
• Population: 171 according to the 2021 Census.
• Character of the Place: peaceful tourist settlement with smaller beaches, apartments, restaurants, and vineyards
• Old Part: on the slope above the sea
• Coastal Part: stretches approximately from Petarčica in the west to Zaca in the east
• Most Famous Beaches and Swimming Spots: Zaca, Skalinada/Velo žalo, Molva, Petarčica, Eva, FKK Stela, and Žučica
• Beaches East Towards Gromin Dolac: more natural, quieter, and accessible by dirt road
• Sea: very clean and transparent, best on calm days without a south wind
• Natural Shade: varies from beach to beach; Žučica has more shade, while Zaca and Eva are very sunny
• Boat Trip: Šćedro
• Most Important Church to Visit: Church of St. Leopold Mandić and St. Nicholas
• Local Feast: St. Peter of Verona, April 29
• Gastronomy: fresh fish, gregada, buzara, squid, octopus, peka, and other Dalmatian dishes
• Restaurants: Skalinada, Davor, Konoba Zavala, and Zaca Bar & Restaurant
• Bars: Terra Nova, Petarčica, Zaca, and Wilson's in Gromin Dolac
• Local Wine: worth tasting wines from southern Hvar positions and visiting OPG Ladovina
• Arrival from Jelsa: via Pitve and the Pitve – Zavala tunnel
• Tunnel: about 1,400 m long and 2.3 m wide, traffic is regulated by traffic lights
• Motorcycles, mopeds, and bicycles: passage through the tunnel is not allowed
• Parking: limited along the coast; having a private parking space is a significant advantage for accommodation
• Roads: local streets are narrow; east of Zavala towards Gromin Dolac, the road is dirt
• Best Time for Swimming: June – September
• Calmest Period: June and September
• Best for: peaceful vacation, beaches, families, couples, local gastronomy, wine, and exploring the southern coast of Hvar