Peškarija 1911 – contemporary fish cuisine in the old fish market of Vis
Peškarija 1911 is located on the main waterfront in Vis, within the premises of the former town fish market established in 1911. The location itself sets it apart from nearly all other restaurants on the island – the old stone space has not been converted into a standard dining room but retains the character of a fish market, including the original stone counter, which now serves as a seating and serving area.
The concept extends to the plate as well. Peškarija is not a typical Dalmatian konoba where one comes for large grilled fish and Swiss chard; rather, it is a modern fish bistro that prepares traditional Vis ingredients, particularly sardines, anchovies, mackerel, cuttlefish, and other Adriatic fish, in a more contemporary manner.
Notably, great attention is given to blue fish, which has sustained Vis for centuries but often takes a back seat to more expensive white fish in today’s restaurants.
Blue fish takes centre stage
Sardines, anchovies, and mackerel here are not merely cheap substitutes for 'better' fish but are the foundation for some of the most interesting dishes.
Sardine savoury is one of the best examples of the connection to traditional Dalmatian cuisine. The fish is marinated in a tangy marinade, a technique that once served as a method of preserving fish, and here it finds its place among the cold starters.
Also featured is dried and smoked mackerel, another flavour very close to the fishing heritage of Vis.
A completely different approach is taken with stuffed anchovies in black tempura – this small local fish receives a modern presentation, accompanied by a creamy filling and various sauces. It is with such dishes that the idea of Peškarija is most evident: local ingredients remain the starting point, but the dish is no longer a classic tavern interpretation.
Tartare, carpaccio, and cold seafood starters
The cold starters are particularly interesting if one wishes to sample several different flavours before the main course.
Peškarija tartare is prepared from the fish of the day, with fresh and tangy accompaniments that change according to the current menu. There is also smoked fish carpaccio, which can combine mullet, olive oil, lemon, capers, orange, and sun-dried tomatoes.
Octopus and prawn salad is also presented in a more modern way than the classic Dalmatian octopus salad, featuring capers, tomatoes, and fruity or citrus notes.
If visiting in pairs or a larger group, it is best to experience Peškarija through several sharing starters. This way, one can easily see the various methods of fish preparation employed by the kitchen.
Hot starters and prawn ravioli
For hot starters, the seafood continues in somewhat richer combinations.
Alongside fried anchovies, the menu features stuffed prawn ravioli, served with a tomato sauce and creamier accompaniments. This dish moves beyond classic island cuisine while still keeping the Adriatic as its main theme.
Fish soup is also available, and the specific offerings of hot starters may change with the seasons and catch.
Cuttlefish, mullet, and other fish as main courses
In the main courses, Peškarija does not rely solely on the most well-known and expensive types of fish.
The menu includes cuttlefish, mullet, and scad, as well as other varieties depending on availability. This is particularly interesting as these fish belong to everyday Adriatic cuisine, yet here they are prepared and presented in a manner befitting a serious modern restaurant.
Cuttlefish can be combined with potatoes and polenta, mullet with vegetable creams and gratin potatoes, while scad receives richer sauces and carefully arranged sides.
Occasionally, shark may also appear on the menu. The menu is not entirely static, so it is far more important to check the current offerings than to arrive with the expectation that a specific dish will be available.
Fish from the waters around Vis
The connection to local fishing is not merely a marketing story.
Peškarija is run by the Linčir family, well-connected with Vis fishing, and part of the fish that ends up in the kitchen comes from their own catch in the waters around Vis. This particularly applies to blue fish such as sardines, anchovies, and mackerel.
Thus, the concept of the old fish market makes much more sense – it is not just about a restaurant set in a historic space, but a place where fish remains the focal point of the entire narrative.
Vis wines and the first sparkling wine from Vis
The wine selection is particularly focused on Vis.
The list features wines from various island producers, including Vugava, Pošip, Rukatac, and Trbljan, as well as rosé and red wines from Vis.
It is worth paying attention to the sparkling wine from Vis, especially as an aperitif before several fish starters.
With anchovies, sardines, carpaccio, and white fish, fresher white wines pair naturally, while with smoked mackerel, cuttlefish, and richer sauces, a wine with a more pronounced character can be chosen.
Carob, Plavac, and desserts with an island signature
The desserts attempt to maintain a connection to the island.
Among them is carob rožata, an interesting interpretation of one of the most famous Dalmatian desserts. Carob is a traditional island ingredient and fits well within the restaurant's overall philosophy.
Even more unusual is the combination of chocolate and Plavac, where the Dalmatian red wine is used as part of the dessert.
The dessert selection is not extensive, but it is well thought out as a conclusion to the seafood menu, rather than a generic choice of cakes that could be found anywhere.
The old fish market transformed into a restaurant
The space may be as interesting as the food.
The building of the old fish market in Vis has been restored to preserve the stone walls, wooden roof structure, and original elements of the fish market. Notably, the large stone counter, once used for selling fish, now functions as a communal table and bar.
This layout creates a different atmosphere from restaurants with rows of separate tables. Guests can sit next to each other at the large stone counter, giving the space a livelier, almost bar-like character.
Peškarija is thus simultaneously a restaurant, fish bistro, and wine bar – serious enough for a full dinner, yet equally suitable for a few starters and a bottle of wine.
Location on the main waterfront
Peškarija 1911 is located on Obala sv. Jurja, right in the heart of Vis and directly by the sea.
It is a short walk along the waterfront from the ferry terminal, and from Kuta, a pleasant coastal stroll through the town. For guests staying in Vis, a car is not necessary.
It is particularly convenient for sailors moored at the town quay as it is located right next to the nautical section of the port.
Parking
The restaurant does not have its own large parking area adjacent to the building.
It is situated on the main town waterfront, where parking space for cars is limited, so when arriving from the interior of the island, it is most practical to use one of the public car parks in Vis and continue the last part on foot.
If staying in the town or arriving by boat, pedestrian access is far simpler.
Reservations
Peškarija is a relatively small and specifically organised space, so making a reservation during the peak season is advisable.
This is especially recommended if one wishes to enjoy a full dinner or is coming in a larger group. For a shorter stay with a few bites and wine, it may be possible to try without a reservation, but in summer, it is unwise to assume that a table will always be available.
Useful information
Location: main waterfront in the town of Vis
Type of establishment: fish bistro and wine bar
Cuisine: contemporary interpretation of Vis and Dalmatian fish cuisine
Special feature: restaurant in a restored town fish market from 1911
Offer: sardines, anchovies, mackerel, octopus, prawns, cuttlefish, and various fish from the Adriatic
Blue fish: one of the main elements of the menu
Local Vis wines: yes
Vegetarian options: very limited as the concept is primarily fish-based
Reservation: advisable during the season
Parking: public parking in the wider central area
Location by the sea: yes
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