Konoba Humac – Peka and Dinner Under the Stars in an Old Shepherd's Village

Konoba Humac is located in the eponymous old shepherd's settlement on the central ridge of the island of Hvar, approximately 7 kilometers east of Jelsa. At about 350 meters above sea level, among stone houses, olive trees, and aromatic Mediterranean herbs, this is one of the most unusual dining locations in the Jelsa area.

This place is not visited for views of the waterfront or modern restaurant interiors. Humac has largely preserved the appearance of an old rural settlement, and Konoba Humac is integrated into this environment. Stone tables are arranged throughout the courtyard and garden, cooking is done over an open fire, and in the evening, due to the minimal artificial lighting above the village, the starry sky is particularly prominent.

Dinner in Old Humac

Humac was once a pastoral and seasonal agricultural settlement connected to families from Vrisnik. The stone houses, narrow passages, courtyards, and dry stone walls have not been replaced by modern tourist developments, allowing one to easily imagine what life in the interior of Hvar was like centuries ago.

The konoba is situated in this historical space, not in a specially constructed tourist complex. Therefore, coming for dinner also provides an opportunity to stroll through Humac.

It is best to arrive while there is still daylight, walk through the stone settlement, and then stay for dinner when Humac becomes completely tranquil.

Peka is the Main Reason to Visit

Dishes cooked under the peka are the central part of the menu at Konoba Humac.

Notably, lamb and octopus prepared through long cooking under an iron lid stand out. Potatoes, vegetables, and meat or octopus are cooked together, slowly absorbing the juices and aroma of the fire.

This method of preparation aligns perfectly with the overall concept of the place. Humac is not a restaurant aimed at quickly turning over tables, but rather a place for a slower dinner and dishes that require time.

If you are coming specifically for the peka, it is advisable to arrange it in advance.

Octopus Under the Peka

Octopus under the peka is one of the more recognizable specialties of the konoba.

It is prepared with potatoes and vegetables, without the need for complex sauces or modern additions. The long cooking gives it a distinctly different character from octopus prepared in a salad or grilled.

In Humac, such a dish fits particularly well with the ambiance, as the entire kitchen is based on traditional fire cooking methods.

Lamb and Fire-Cooked Meat

Lamb is another classic of the house.

In addition to peka, the meat is also grilled, providing good options for lovers of simpler meat dishes. The emphasis is not on complicated presentation but on quality ingredients, fire, and traditional preparation.

This is precisely the type of cuisine that makes the most sense in such an environment.

Fresh Grilled Fish

Although Humac is located inland, the menu is not limited to meat.

Fresh fish grilled is also available. Fish, olive oil, vegetables, and homemade wine create a very simple combination that suits a summer evening well.

For a group where some want lamb or peka and others want fish, there is no need to seek a compromise.

Homemade Cheese, Salted Sardines, and Vegetables

Before the main course, it is worth leaving room for simple island appetizers.

Homemade cheese, salted sardines, and seasonal vegetables well illustrate the philosophy of the kitchen – there is no need to hide quality ingredients behind a multitude of additions when they are good on their own.

Some of the vegetables come from their own organic cultivation, so the offerings naturally change with the seasons.

Homemade Wine

Homemade wine pairs particularly well with peka and fire-cooked meat.

Viticulture has been a cornerstone of life in this part of Hvar for centuries, so wine in Humac is not just an addition to the restaurant menu. It is part of the entire story of the village, agriculture, and traditional way of life.

A glass of wine at a stone table under the open sky is one of those details that makes dinner in Humac memorable in a different way than dining on the Jelsa waterfront.

Without City Lights and Under a Starry Sky

Humac does not have a classic electrical and water supply network like populated areas along the coast.

Due to the very little artificial lighting, the night sky here is particularly striking. After sunset, the entire settlement becomes very dark and quiet, and the tables under the open sky take on a completely different atmosphere.

Dinner by candlelight and stars is not a marketing addition to the space but a natural consequence of the location of the konoba.

Views Towards Brač and the Interior of Hvar

Humac is situated high on the ridge of the island.

From the vicinity of the village, there are wide views towards the northern side of Hvar, Brač, and the mainland, while olives, vineyards, stone, and Mediterranean vegetation alternate around the settlement.

Therefore, it is worthwhile to arrive before dark. Dinner is the main reason to visit the konoba, but it would be a shame to arrive only when the surrounding landscape is no longer visible.

Getting There from Jelsa

There is an asphalt road leading from Jelsa to Humac, and the drive is approximately 7 kilometers long. The turnoff towards Humac is marked from the main island road, and it is possible to drive to the settlement itself.

There is space for parking near Humac, after which you continue on foot through the village.

Since the konoba is located outside of Jelsa and other larger settlements, one should account for driving in the dark for the return trip in the evening. Those planning to drink wine should arrange for their return before arriving.

Combine with a Visit to Humac and Grapčeva Cave

The konoba is not the only reason to visit this part of the island.

Humac itself is worth exploring for its preserved rural architecture, stone houses, and the church of St. John and Paul, and visits to the nearby Grapčeva Cave, one of the most important prehistoric sites on Hvar, are organized from the settlement.

Thus, the visit can turn into an entire afternoon: exploring Humac, visiting the cave, and finally dining at the konoba.

Who is Konoba Humac Best Suited For?

Humac is not a place for guests who want to quickly eat something before returning to the beach.

It is much more suitable for those who seek traditional food and a special place for dinner. Peka, open fire, stone tables, an old shepherd's village, and a sky without city lights together create an experience that is difficult to replicate in a conventional restaurant.

For this reason, Konoba Humac is one of the restaurants worth highlighting when wanting to explore the inner, rural side of Hvar, not just its beaches and coastal towns.

Useful Information

  • Type of establishment: traditional konoba and ambient restaurant
  • Location: Humac, an old shepherd's settlement in the interior of Hvar
  • Distance from Jelsa: approximately 7 km
  • Elevation: about 350 m
  • Main specialty: dishes cooked under the peka
  • Peka: lamb and octopus are particularly highlighted
  • Fish: fresh fish is grilled
  • Appetizers: homemade cheese, salted sardines, and seasonal vegetables
  • Vegetables: part of the offering comes from their own organic cultivation
  • Wine: homemade wine is available
  • Ambiance: stone tables outdoors among olive trees and Mediterranean vegetation
  • Access: asphalt road from Jelsa, by car to Humac
  • Parking: vehicles can be parked near the settlement
  • Peka: it is advisable to arrange it in advance for desired selection
  • For families: spacious courtyard and peaceful surroundings are suitable for families with children
  • Special feature: traditional dinner under the open sky in one of the best-preserved old rural settlements on Hvar